Aggressive scooping and droopy darts
Doesn’t that sound promising?
I finally sewed up my second try at Advance 8612. If you will recall, I wanted to make 3 more changes to the fit: 1. scoop out the armholes some more to get rid of the stress wrinkles above the bust in front and back, 2. move the dart apex further back, 3. elongate the front tucks.
How did it turn out? Before I get into the nitty gritty of what went down and how, I have to give a thankful shout out to Sherry at Pattern Scissors Cloth for her absolutely amazing convertible collar tutorial. As I mentioned in my review of Advance 8612, the convertible collar instructions were less than useful. So I used Sherry’s great tutorial to sew my collar on this blouse. It went fantastically well. Seriously. It was sooo easy. I still had to ease the collar onto the neckline, but I am thinking that it may have been drafted that way on purpose so that it would curve around the neck better? Any more experienced seamstresses want to weigh in on my unfounded theory/guess? I am no pattern drafter, so I wouldn’t know at all. I’m just taking a stab in the dark here.
My beautiful convertible collar…
But back to how the blouse turned out… Well, I was little too aggressive with my armhole scooping and the armholes are a little too large now. I redrew the dart and moved it further away from the bust apex, but there was this weird poufiness under the bust and the dart tip was puckered. Should I have distributed the 4 inch fullness of the dart into two darts? I don’t know, because I am feeling like I don’t know anything anymore. Also, plaid matching is a total beeyatch. I was able to match the dark blue stripe horizontally, but forgot to match it vertically at the shoulder seams and collar. Ooops. I guess I can only learn one thing at a time.
Anyway, here’s what it looked like this morning…
Upon the recommendation from my sewing friends on FB to alter the bust darts, I tried pulling the front side seams in a bit. That didn’t really help too much as you can see below. It tightened up the back, but the poufiness was still there right under the dart.
Then I bit the bullet and unpicked the side seams, serged seam allowances and all, the hem by the side seams and the bust darts. I had my mom fit the bust darts so that they were angled downward more, thereby taking in the poufiness under the bust. I marked my pattern with the new dart position. I resewed the darts and basted the side seams and here is where I am now.
As you can see, the poufiness under the bust is now gone, but I still can’t seem to get rid of the puckered dart tips. No matter how much I press them, they stay puckered.
I have to admit to feeling a little disheartened with my sewing right about now. I seem to be getting worse, not better. I mean, why do I still have puckery darts after 6 years of sewing? I think I’m at a point now where I know what good sewing looks like but am not there yet with my skill set and I am frustrated with it. I am frustrated with my bosoms (is that term even pluralized?) and how much they make fitting so difficult. I know the broad strokes of doing an FBA, but how much of an FBA do you do for each pattern? Is it the same every time or dependent on the pattern? I am guessing it’s a little different for each one. And where do you place the dart? Should it angle down towards the side seam 45 degrees? 20 degrees? Is there a formula or a rule for dart placement or is the stock answer, “It depends.” As I found out today, I had to angle my dart lower to get rid of excess fabric beneath my bust. But I’m still left with puckered dart ends.
I don’t mean to be a debbie downer all the time. I probably shouldn’t be writing this post at midnight. I should probably just save it in draft and then delete it after I wake up. But I also want to keep it real. I want to show my struggles and my successes (as little of them as there are). Maybe I should just give up and sew Eileen Fisher-like clothes from now on. At least they don’t have darts. I’ll be the mom in the school carline with the shapeless clothes in interesting fabrics. Wave hi if you see me.