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B5454 Love

2012 September 10
by elizabeth_admin

Oh how do I love B5454?  Let me count the ways.

I finished my second version of B5454 on Saturday and I just love it.  This pattern is perfect for a border print.  Just perfect.  I made it up in border print (the first one I ever bought!) from FabricMart.  It’s an Anna Sui print I believe.  I think I’ve had this piece in my stash for at least 2-3 years now.  It was too good to use.  I was scared to use it.  It was waiting for the perfectest pattern.  A pattern that would use its border printedness to full effect.  And it has purple in it, my favorite color.  So you can imagine how high the stakes were when cutting out this fabric.  I had just enough.  Barely a scrap left after cutting.

But before the pretty pictures (by Jack the photographer natch), let me tell you my FBA tale.  As I mentioned in my last post, my Facebook sewing group came to my rescue when I was working on my flat pattern alterations.  There was a lot of tracing and slashing and spreading.  Erasers were used.  Colored pencils were sharpened over and over again.  My 2D little brain was challenged to the max.  But eventually I was able to take the pattern to FBA land and then Rotated Dart land. It was quite a journey.  I still feel jet lagged.

First the slash and spread….

 

But now there’s a side dart.  I don’t want a side dart.  A few FB sewing friends suggested rotating the dart into the shoulder pleat that is already in the pattern.  Brilliant.  Rotating a dart is way easier than I thought it would be.  I just looked it up in my FFRP book.  Easy peasy.

 

But look at that huge ginormous pleat at the shoulder.  It was 7 inches wide.  I kid you  not.  So I experimented with multiple pleats and ended up with 3 pleats instead of one.  Et voilá!  The altered bodice front wrap pattern retraced and ready to go…

 

After those mental gymnastics I was ready to cut and sew.  For this version I re-read my original review of the pattern to make sure I was incorporating all the fit changes I wanted to make and not repeating any mistakes.  So:

  • I cut a sz 10 with a 3 inch FBA, altering the front bodice and front skirt pattern pieces
  • I made sure to turn over the seam allowance twice on the neck/wrap edges to avoid floppy seam allowances
  • Since I used a border print, I used the selvedge instead of hemming for the sleeves and hem.  What a time saver!  Not all border prints are created equally though; some have an unprinted selvedge so you would have to hem regardless.
  • I remembered to sew the right side seam instead of serge so I could make a more professional slit opening for the tie of the dress.  Yeah!

The only flaw if you could call it that, is that I used white serger thread because the majority of the dress has a white background.  But when I coverstitched the wrap edges, the white thread on the purple border of the skirt doesn’t look that great.  Oh well.  If that’s all that’s wrong with the dress, I’m ok with that.

So here’s how the dress looks on.  I think it’s super flattering and I love the print.  It’s so comfy.  The girls have enough room although I am little disappointed to still have to wear a cami underneath.  I found that the grand canyon between my two land masses was too deep the wrap edges would disappear down into the canyon never to be seen again, exposing my bra no matter how I tied the wrap.  So on went the cami.  *sigh*  I guess my land masses are just too big.

 

 

I love this dress.  Can’t wait to make the next border print version.  As I mentioned, it’s already cut out and ready to go.  I had to piece the ties, but I think it will be stunning.  And I made a stash discovery when hunting for border prints for this pattern.  I only had 3 border prints in the stash.  I couldn’t believe it.  Knowing how much I love border prints, I can’t understand how there aren’t any more.  I might have to rectify this pronto, don’t you think?

Happy sewing everyone!

31 Responses leave one →
  1. September 10, 2012

    Gorgeous! Great job on the fitting. It will be perfect for the school run.

  2. Shams permalink
    September 10, 2012

    Elizabeth, it looks beyond fabulous. A perfect fitting job!!! I love it in that print, too. I have that same print buried in my stash. 🙂

  3. September 10, 2012

    It looks great! I love the purple print. Maybe try one of those low-cut (demi?) bras to wear under it?

  4. September 10, 2012

    Fabulous! I love this, especially with the border print. It looks like your fit alterations came out really well.

  5. September 10, 2012

    Beautiful! I also hate having to wear a cami under a wrap dress (esp. when it’s 100 degrees outside), so i’ve started just sewing mine shut at the top, so that the v-neck comes together at the right height. So now they’re a faux-wrap, but it works for me. I have to find some border print fabric!!

  6. September 10, 2012

    Oh, the new version is simply fabulous Elizabeth!

  7. September 10, 2012

    Oooooohhhhh, I had this fabric too and I love your version of the wrap dress in it! I’m sure the next one is just as pretty!

  8. September 10, 2012

    It *is* just perfect! Yes yes yes (enable enable enable) – border prints are fun to work with and this dress is a real winner on you! Go shop! 😉

  9. Wendy permalink
    September 10, 2012

    Beautiful dress! I have made three versions of this pattern myself and I can agree it is a fab dress to make and to wear. However, I have never sewn with a border print and soon as I leave here I am going to fix that.

  10. September 10, 2012

    Stunning dress. The fabric is gorgeous.

  11. September 10, 2012

    Right on … Well done! It looks terrific. I like to sew vicariously through your efforts because I would never have the courage or skill to do all the altering and to get such a perfectly fitting result!

    Loulou

  12. Renee permalink
    September 10, 2012

    Gorgeous dress! Congrats on getting the fit issues worked out.

  13. September 10, 2012

    Beautiful dress Elizabeth – stunning – and you are right – it does show off the border print. I too love border prints and wonder at the lack of them. I am always searching.

    For your next incarnation of this dress you can always add some to the front of the dress (shock horror – more pattern adjustments) to raise the neckline. I did this successfully with a top I just finished.

    I held the pattern on me to see where it would lie and then just added an inch. Here is a link to a tutorial.

    http://presserfoot.blogspot.com.au/2009/09/taking-it-up-notch.html

  14. September 10, 2012

    Hi Elizabeth, beautiful job on the dress. Great fit, perfect fabric! It looks lovely on. I like the cami, but I can relate to the large land masses and big ol’ FBA.

  15. September 10, 2012

    I love your new dress! The print is gorgeous and the fit is wonderful! I’m getting ready to dive into FBA for the first time with a simple knit blouse. Wish me luck!

  16. Gail permalink
    September 11, 2012

    I just love your new dress especially the fabric.

  17. September 11, 2012

    Great dress, and it looks so good on you! I feel your pain with the FBAs, etc. Shoulder pleats are definitely our friends, and multiples are always a good plan. I have given up on wrap dresses for the most part. Too much difference in look between the inside and outside ‘side’…at least for me. You, on the other hand, look marvelous. 🙂

  18. September 11, 2012

    Lovely! Purple is definitely your colour. And now you’ve done all the alterations you should definitely make more of these.

  19. Mel permalink
    September 11, 2012

    Absolutely gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous!!

  20. September 11, 2012

    Congratulations on some awesome bodice work! Those photos will be really useful for people. The dress looks superb!

  21. Jenny stratford permalink
    September 11, 2012

    I really like this wrap dress and also the fabric you chose. Great job on the fba alterations also.

  22. September 11, 2012

    WOW that dress is AMAZING!

  23. September 11, 2012

    Beautiful dress…LOVE the fabric!

  24. Lisa permalink
    September 11, 2012

    You look absolutely stunning! The dress is fabulous! It’s a terrific style for you, looks like you got all the right elements together for a perfect fit. I love your blog! Thanks for sharing!

  25. Carol S permalink
    September 11, 2012

    Great fit work and great dress.
    Two ideas. You could make a modesty piece and sew it to one side and snap it on the other instead of wearing a cami but still have the look and coverage. Also have you seen this tutorial as you might need to adjust both sides on a wrap to get the coverage you need:

    http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/03/09/adjusting-for-a-full-bust-on-a-wrap-top/

  26. September 12, 2012

    Great dress in a great print, I can see it with boots for the fall too (if fall happens in San Diego?!).

  27. Kate McIvor permalink
    September 12, 2012

    Great job on the full bust adjustment! Your breasts aren’t too big, the pattern is just cut smaller in that area than you are. We sewists literally ‘make’ the clothes fit us. Thanks for showing how it’s done!

  28. September 15, 2012

    This style of dress always looks so fantastic on you, and the fabric is wonderful too.

  29. September 17, 2012

    This is a pretty dress. I love border prints. This is a flattering style. I really need to try a wrap dress.

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