Oh how do I love B5454? Let me count the ways.
I finished my second version of B5454 on Saturday and I just love it. This pattern is perfect for a border print. Just perfect. I made it up in border print (the first one I ever bought!) from FabricMart. It’s an Anna Sui print I believe. I think I’ve had this piece in my stash for at least 2-3 years now. It was too good to use. I was scared to use it. It was waiting for the perfectest pattern. A pattern that would use its border printedness to full effect. And it has purple in it, my favorite color. So you can imagine how high the stakes were when cutting out this fabric. I had just enough. Barely a scrap left after cutting.
But before the pretty pictures (by Jack the photographer natch), let me tell you my FBA tale. As I mentioned in my last post, my Facebook sewing group came to my rescue when I was working on my flat pattern alterations. There was a lot of tracing and slashing and spreading. Erasers were used. Colored pencils were sharpened over and over again. My 2D little brain was challenged to the max. But eventually I was able to take the pattern to FBA land and then Rotated Dart land. It was quite a journey. I still feel jet lagged.
First the slash and spread….
But now there’s a side dart. I don’t want a side dart. A few FB sewing friends suggested rotating the dart into the shoulder pleat that is already in the pattern. Brilliant. Rotating a dart is way easier than I thought it would be. I just looked it up in my FFRP book. Easy peasy.
But look at that huge ginormous pleat at the shoulder. It was 7 inches wide. I kid you not. So I experimented with multiple pleats and ended up with 3 pleats instead of one. Et voilá! The altered bodice front wrap pattern retraced and ready to go…
After those mental gymnastics I was ready to cut and sew. For this version I re-read my original review of the pattern to make sure I was incorporating all the fit changes I wanted to make and not repeating any mistakes. So:
- I cut a sz 10 with a 3 inch FBA, altering the front bodice and front skirt pattern pieces
- I made sure to turn over the seam allowance twice on the neck/wrap edges to avoid floppy seam allowances
- Since I used a border print, I used the selvedge instead of hemming for the sleeves and hem. What a time saver! Not all border prints are created equally though; some have an unprinted selvedge so you would have to hem regardless.
- I remembered to sew the right side seam instead of serge so I could make a more professional slit opening for the tie of the dress. Yeah!
The only flaw if you could call it that, is that I used white serger thread because the majority of the dress has a white background. But when I coverstitched the wrap edges, the white thread on the purple border of the skirt doesn’t look that great. Oh well. If that’s all that’s wrong with the dress, I’m ok with that.
So here’s how the dress looks on. I think it’s super flattering and I love the print. It’s so comfy. The girls have enough room although I am little disappointed to still have to wear a cami underneath. I found that the grand canyon between my two land masses was too deep the wrap edges would disappear down into the canyon never to be seen again, exposing my bra no matter how I tied the wrap. So on went the cami. *sigh* I guess my land masses are just too big.
I love this dress. Can’t wait to make the next border print version. As I mentioned, it’s already cut out and ready to go. I had to piece the ties, but I think it will be stunning. And I made a stash discovery when hunting for border prints for this pattern. I only had 3 border prints in the stash. I couldn’t believe it. Knowing how much I love border prints, I can’t understand how there aren’t any more. I might have to rectify this pronto, don’t you think?
Happy sewing everyone!