Back in Wadderville
I was pretty psyched when I woke this morning and thought I had a winner just waiting to be hemmed and neckline bound. But boy was my pride in for a reckoning. Man. I am pretty down right now. But let me back up a little…
The next muslin I made for my ASOS knockoff was the Burda raglan knit top in sz 38 and an FBA with the bust dart rotated out to the side seam. I used Debbie’s tutorial for this FBA. I think I managed to get a pretty good fit with this method.
I still had swayback pooling in the back though. I had tried a method of getting rid of that extra fabric, but my results were not that great. So I just went ahead without adjusting the back pattern piece. All of my RTW t-shirts and sweaters do that, so I’m not too axed about it. To recap, I changed the following for this iteration:
- Sz 38 with FBA with dart rotated to back seam
- Raised the neckline about a centimeter
- used smaller seam allowances on the raglan sleeves
Here’s where it looked like last night before I replaced the knit sleeves for the faux leather sleeves.
Not bad right? Of course nothing is hemmed yet and I haven’t bound the neckline, but the fit is within acceptable limits. But then all hell breaks loose when I swap out the knit sleeves for the faux leather ones and add one really wonky looking binding. Why is it wonky when I own a wondrous coverstitch machine? Because in my excitement and haste in adding my faux leather sleeves, I forgot that I needed to leave one shoulder seam unsewn to attach the binding. I had to serge my binding on and then use the coverstitch to top stitch the binding into place. IT. IS. AWFUL. LOOKING. I’m almost too embarrassed to show you. Almost.
Besides the hideous neck binding, you can see that the faux leather sleeves, despite that they are made of stretch faux leather, are not really that stretchy. So they don’t have the same stretch ability as the double knit thereby making the sleeves much smaller than the double knit sleeves. This in turn, changes the fit of the whole top because the essence of the raglan sleeve is that it is part of the body of the top (shoulders and part of the neckline/chest area), not just the arm area. So if they stretch less, this creates less ease in the entire garment. I obviously didn’t account for that. And now I know why I shouldn’t have used a faux leather for a raglan sleeve top. I always learn things the hard way. Always. *sigh*
Dare I point out how hideous the neck binding is? Do you notice how warped it is? How it stands away from my body like it doesn’t want to touch me? Yeah, me too.
This top is officially a wadder. But there is a silver lining folks, thankfully.
I have two knit raglan sleeves left over that can be inserted into another top. And I just so happen to have some navy double knit. Maybe I will work on the back pattern piece some more to work out my swayback issues. If anyone has any other fit suggestions regarding the front or back, please speak up, because I’m about to hop on the train back to Muslin City.
Oh, and one more thing… I have not given up on ASOS knockoff. But this time I am going to copy it faithfully and put in set in sleeves. I have already picked out a pattern. But that’s a tale for another day.