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Burda Skirt Update

2010 January 20
by elizabeth_admin

Confession:  It’s taken me over a week to cut out my fashion fabric, lining, transfer the pattern markings and interface the yoke on this damn oh-so-cute Burda skirt.  Why? I ask you for all that is holy did it take me so long.  Hmmm…  Well, let’s take into account the following: 

  1. I’m a beginner
  2. I have never worked with tweed before
  3. This pattern is easy but not the quick fix I thought it would be after the trench project
  4. I’m a beginner
  5. I tend to overthink things (no, really?)
  6. Jack was not being cooperative with bedtime four of the last 7 nights so I wasn’t able to work very much
  7. Oh, and did I mention that I’m a beginner?
  8. Double Oh, 24’s season premiere started this week.

Karen helped me out with some of my stupid duh questions, like: 

  • How do you transfer pattern markings to the opposite side of the folded pattern pieces if a tracing wheel and carbon paper don’t work on tweed?  Answer: Use tailor’s chalk.  Open up the fold and place the pattern piece on the opposite side and transfer markings separately.  DUH!!!  Or use thread tracing.  I did a little of both.
  • To pre-treat or not to pre-treat the polyester lining?  That is the question.  Answer: Not usually, but I steamed it with my iron just to be sure.  I don’t want to spend all this time on a skirt only to have it not wearable after one trip to the dry cleaners. WORD!

So, here’s how I accomplished transferring the markings to my fashion fabric, based on Karen’s suggestions above.  I don’t know if this is THE method to follow, but it worked for me, and I wanted to share it with you. 

Since this is a Burda pattern, the seam allowances are not included, so I first chalked the seam lines on the wrong side of the fabric (WS).  Then I used a ruler to mark the 1 inch seam allowances (SA).  I used 1 inch for my SA because I wanted to make sure I had some wiggle room if the next size up (sz 40) wasn’t enough to contain my ample curves.  *sigh*  Picture below. 

tailor's chalk markings

 

So one side of the folded pattern piece is marked.  Now to mark the second side.  I did not open the fabric as Karen suggested, because I thought of something else to do instead.  If anyone has an opinion (like, “you are a genius!!!” or “here’s some constructive criticism my dear”), please let me know in the comments.   Here’s what I did next:  I marked all nexus point with a pin so I could see where they showed up on the other side of the fold.  Then, when I placed the pattern tissue on the other side, I could match it up and chalk away confidently.  Ta da!!! 

Pins on opposite side of fold

 

They’re hard to see, but the pins are there.  Here’s the chalked up second side… 

Opposite side chalked

 

Next, I cut out the lining, no surprises there and I was back to the  tracing wheel/carbon paper method.  Phew! 

Then it came time to interface the yoke pieces.  And because I can’t complete a project without making one mistake, I cut out the yoke pieces without folding the interfacing and then wondered why it wasn’t long enough.  *big sigh*  I bought my fusible woven interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply and used Pam Erny’s method of taking the wrinkles out of fusible interfacing.  This time I cut it on the fold with yoke pattern piece and then trimmed about 1/8 inch off on all sides so that the interfacing lay slightly within the sewing lines of the fashion fabric piece.  This is to reduce bulk in the SA’s.  I made sure to use a hot iron, plenty of steam and to apply the iron at least 12 seconds on each piece.  I also started from the middle and pressing out to the edges so that there wouldn’t be any bubbles.  See below… 

interfaced yoke

 

Now here’s where the thread tracing came in handy.  On the front yoke pattern piece, there are placement markings for the skirt pockets.  I used thread tracing to show the placements on the right side (RS) of the fashion fabric for when I am ready to attach the pockets.  Aren’t I fancy?  Next thing you know, I’ll be sewing as professionally as Tany!  As if!  *big big sigh*  Here’s my not so pretty thread tracing… 

pocket placement thread tracing

 

Tonight I hope to sew a majority of the skirt.  I am not so much a beginner now where I delude myself into thinking I can finish it in one night (well, maybe if you’re Carolyn).  You can only pull the wool over my eyes a billion times before I catch on.  Yes, I am that quick! 

Happy sewing everyone!

7 Responses leave one →
  1. January 20, 2010

    I think it is amazing that you got that far because Jack is a very busy little man! You are doing fine as long as you’re not walking the streets naked – its all good!

  2. January 20, 2010

    I think the pin is genius…because that is what I have been doing on some Burda pants!

    I have a 5 and a 2 year old, so I think you are moving at break-neck speed.

  3. Sue permalink
    January 20, 2010

    Elizabeth, You shouldn’t put yourself down … really!!
    You are doing so great with your sewing.

  4. January 20, 2010

    I do the pin thing too when my fabric is too thick for the tracing paper. I am still working on mastering un-wrinkled interfacing.

    Can’t wait to see the finished product! Love the fabric…I am not ambitious enough to try a lined skirt yet. I have a suit in my queue (jacket/skirt) that need lining. I am hesitant…

  5. January 20, 2010

    Sorry, dear, but if you are chalk marking and thread tracing (and using Pam’s interfacing), you are no beginner. 🙂

  6. Hatty permalink
    January 21, 2010

    You’re a genius with those pins, dear, and so are we…. Funny you never find that technique in any guide but we all do it…. But do you use steam with iron-on interfacing? I thought that was a no-no… But I’m a (re)beginner.

  7. January 23, 2010

    You’re not the only one who makes mistakes 🙂 I’m learning to take my time with sewing. It’s hard but worth it.

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