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Day 2 — Moulage Class with Kenneth King

2009 May 15
by elizabeth_admin

My apologies for not writing this sooner, but yesterday was just too full a day. 

Wow, I am just digging this class.  I am so excited to see each stage and to see the sloper take shape.  It feels like magic.  It’s like when you see a photo as it develops in the chemicals.  Suddenly a shape, a figure, just appears out of nowhere.  Now if only my thighs weren’t so scarily large.  😉 

We finished the front pattern piece and here’s the funny thing, drew the back piece right on top of the front pattern piece.  Because all of the measurements refer back to each other and the system of points and axes (plural of axis) are also referential, it makes sense to put both pattern pieces on the same piece of paper.  So cool!  The back pattern piece went together much more quickly than the front. 

Two things of note:

  1. When we added our darts, Mr. King instructed us to make the inner side (towards the center) of the dart a straight line and the outer side of the dart to be curved inwards.  I didn’t exactly catch the reasoning behind this, but will ask again at the next class.  I thought it was important to mention here.
  2. My pelvic tilt is quite significant:  2 1/2 inches different from back to front.  When incorporating this in the sloper, Mr. Kind said that I should only put a 1 1/2 inch difference and that we’d tweak it in the muslin fitting.  I will be interested to see how much tweaking we’ll need to do here.  And who knew I was so crooked!?

The next stage was to transfer the patterns to fresh sheets of paper.  The class syllabus had asked us to bring kraft paper to draw our patterns on, but I only had pattern tissue at home, so that’s what I brought.  And boy was I glad that I had it for this stage, because all I had to do was trace it out.  No need for the tracing wheel and carbon paper.  Whoopee!  I was done in minutes while everyone was arduously using their wheels.  *patting myself on the back*  The only downside to the pattern tissue is that it’s more delicate than kraft paper.  So, at some point, I may want to transfer my sloper pattern to a more durable paper.   However, my extra time meant more conversation time with Kenneth King!  He has some great stories and a wonderful sense of humor. 

Once we had our pattern pieces traced, Mr. King showed us how to check our crotch curve.  He layed my pattern pieces over each other.  You could see how the crotch curve needed some tweaking, otherwise you would have a very painful seam there.  Here’s a drawing of how he smoothed out the curves (it’s a very basic drawing made with a hard to use pc program, so please don’t laugh).  The red line is end result for the crotch curve.curve

And here are pics of the patterns as they stand now, after Mr. King smoothed the crotch curve.

top pant sloper fronttop pant sloper backfront and back pant slopers

It’s very hard to photograph tracing paper I’ve found, so these are the best pictures I could get.  (Please ignore the toes in the bottom right.)

Next week, we are going to cut out the muslin and start sewing it up!  And then, we’ll make fitting adjustments if needed.  Ok, who am I kidding, we’ll probably have a lot of tweaking to do.   But how amazing is it that I will have a pants sloper? 

Can’t wait!!!

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