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Deconstruction Construction and Searing Hot Mojo

2014 March 12
by elizabeth_admin

Thanks go out once again to my friends Sherril and Shams who helped me with my latest make.  In my last post about the knit t-shirt block I drafted with the help of Cal Patch’s book, I asked for help with the fit of the t-shirt.  There was some extra fabric at the armscye near the bodice.  I wasn’t sure how or if I could get rid of it.  Sherril helped me scoop out the arm hole on my front bodice pattern piece. Then I re-worked the sleeve and sleeve cap.  I think I still need to work on the sleeve cap but I am definitely on the right track.  I’m so excited!  I was able to get rid of the extra fabric at my armscye.  Woohoo!!!

Scooping out the armhole

Scooping out the armhole


I was so excited that I cut out my next top yesterday afternoon.  Ever since I saw this top, I have wanted to make my own.  I had the perfect stretch lace in my stash.  I bought it with Kyle when we met up on one of her trips.  I was originally going to use it over a knit on a t-shirt, but once I saw the blocked t-shirt the other day, I knew I had to make that one instead.  I used the same blue knit for the body that I used for the raglan sleeves on my first baseball t-shirt.



I copied and cut up my newly altered knit tee block.  I raised the neckline so I would have enough of a top for the lace portion of the shirt.  I cut both the front and back pattern pieces into two pieces each.  I made a short sleeve pattern for this top.  And I was good to go.

To construct the deconstructed t-shirt pattern, I used the following order of construction:

  1. Serged the front top and front bottom together, same with the back pieces.
  2. Serged the front to the back using clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seam.
  3. Basted and serged my binding to the neckline.
  4. Attached the sleeves in the flat.
  5. Serged the side seams.
  6. Coverstitched the hem on the body.
  7. Trimmed the lace around the dots to finish the sleeves (Thanks to Shams’ suggestion!).



When I tried on my new top, I was super pleased that the fit changes worked for the armscye.  I still need to add length to the front pattern piece.  I need to think about where I want to add it in though.  Must have a think about that.

Here is some photographic evidence.


Close up of lace portion



Look ma, no extra fabric by the armpits!






I received a few unsolicitations today at school pickup.  So I’m pretty chuffed.  One woman even wanted me to sell her one.  🙂



So, I’m sure you’ve noticed that my mojo has been en fuego of late.  I hope I’m not jinxing myself.  I just love all the things I’ve made lately.  It’s gonna be a great spring/summer.  I can feel it!

Happy sewing everyone!


20 Responses leave one →
  1. Shams permalink
    March 12, 2014

    It looks great, Elizabeth!

  2. March 12, 2014

    They just keep getting better and better!

  3. March 12, 2014

    I love that top Elizabeth. I’ve yet to try to create one like that. Good job.

  4. March 12, 2014

    Looks great at the armpits.

    For your next iteration, add 1/2″ or so to the center front of the blue section, smoothing out to 0″ at the side seams. This adds a bust dart and should remove the drag lines at your sides.

    • March 13, 2014

      This will make the top of the blue section curved. You are adding a bust dart in the seam

      • elizabeth_admin permalink*
        March 13, 2014

        Thanks BMGM! That makes sense. Wish I had thought of it for this iteration.

  5. March 12, 2014

    That shirt looks great, love the lace with the blue knit. Gorgeous.

  6. March 12, 2014

    this top is so cute! it looks great on you! i don’t know if this will help, but i’ve seen that you can add a small bit of length right at the bust, then ease the extra fabric into the side seam.

  7. March 12, 2014

    Love this one! The color/fabric combo is super cute!

    Also your newfound love for t-shirts – it’s how you know you are Southern Californian. ;-D

  8. March 12, 2014

    Cute top. I love the lace. I have a RTW shirt made of the exact same fabric.

  9. Carol permalink
    March 13, 2014

    I love it! Also that color. Great job.

  10. March 13, 2014

    very cute and love the color

  11. March 13, 2014

    You should be chuffed! Looks great.

  12. March 13, 2014

    Love this one, girl – it’s soooooo you!

  13. March 13, 2014

    There is nothing more useful than a well-fitted t-shirt pattern.

    I really love the way the lace finishes at the sleeves–such a cute top!

  14. March 13, 2014

    Pretty! Fit looking good too.

  15. Wendy permalink
    March 13, 2014

    This looks great, and I’m so impressed that you drafted it yourself! Do you see how the armseye in the back curves toward the center? I think you might consider adding about 1/2 inch to the body–it would give you a little more room across the sleeve, which isn’t pulling but looks a little tight.

    Keep up the great work!

  16. March 13, 2014

    Holy crap, you’ve done what I want to do : eliminate the armpit wrinkles!

    I don’t remember which trip it was either, ha ha!

  17. March 20, 2014

    Love this top!

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