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How did that happen?

2011 July 4
by elizabeth_admin

Where to start?  Hmm…  I guess at the beginning.  I worked on my black eyelet dress yesterday.  First I dragged out my B5147 TNT pattern, the sheath dress.  Remember it?


I took out the original pattern sheets and my muslin pattern with all the alterations added to it and which I use to cut out new versions.  I compared them together to see where they differed and where they were the same.  I compared my muslin pattern to my already made dresses and the tweed wadder.  The twill silk B5147 still fits rather well.  The wedding brocade B5147 fits fine too.  The wadder is still a wadder.  The muslin pattern laid over all them matches.  I still cannot figure out why the wadder’s darts are too high.

So I went with a hunch and lowered the bust dart by 1/2 an inch on my muslin pattern.  Apparently, my girls are just hanging out a little lower now.  (sobby sob sob)  I basted the front bust and fisheye darts to test out my hunch.  I basted the dress together and tried it on.  It looks pretty good except I need to lower the fisheye darts by a 1/2 inch now in front.  It was midnight before I got to this stage, so sorry, no photographic evidence.

I still don’t understand why the original dart position doesn’t work on the tweed wadder but does on the silk twill.  It just doesn’t make sense to me.  And now the black eyelet needs a lower bust and fisheye dart as well.  So weird.  I tried on all my B5147’s and they all fit, well, except for the wadder.

By the way, I underlined the black eyelet with the teal voile.  It looks great!  Of course, had I remembered Trena’s underlining/hong kong finish technique, I would be a happier person right now.  Actually, though, since I was basting the side seams and all the darts, it probably wouldn’t have been a good idea to do that finish on a possibly iffy fit.

Here’s a shot of my underlining basting.  I did think to use Claudine’s suggestion of basting the cut fashion fabric pieces to the underlining fabric first and then cutting the underlining fabric after.  That was a super time saver!  Thanks Claudine!


Today I will finish the following:

  • move the front fisheye darts down 1/2 an inch and maybe make them 1/2 inch longer.  I am having some poufiness around my fluff (not an attractive look I assure you)
  • sew the front darts permanently
  • sew the side seams permanently
  • bind the armscyes and neckline with black bias tape
  • hem the dress

The zipper will have to wait until Tuesday as I could not find a long enough black invisible zip anywhere in my stash.  I am really bummed about that.  I could have sworn I had one.  I guess a visit to P&S is now planned for lunch time tomorrow.

Happy 4th to my fellow U.S. sewists!  And happy sewing!

10 Responses leave one →
  1. July 4, 2011

    Elizabeth – its looking great! Are you wearing the same undergarments when you try these on? I know some bras fit differently than others and can make a difference.

  2. July 4, 2011

    This is going to be so pretty! I am looking forward to seeing the finished dress. I have no idea why the same pattern fits differently sometimes, it must be to do with the fabric.

  3. July 4, 2011

    The teal and black combo looks awesome! Glad you found the right fabric. I’m looking forward to seeing the dress.

  4. Treadle27 permalink
    July 4, 2011

    Tweed’s generally a heavier fabric, that can affect how it fits. I’d guess that’s the difference there.

  5. July 4, 2011

    I love the look of the underlining fabric with the black eyelet!! What a great choice! The finished dress will be amazing…and you don’t have a longer black zipper that you could cut down?

    Your wadder just proves the point that fabric acts differently in different situations. One more sewing lesson learned, my friend!

  6. July 4, 2011

    This is going to look beautiful .

  7. July 5, 2011

    No idea about the dart problem – but rest assured that all the faffing will be worth it because the black and teal combination is going to look FAB.

  8. July 5, 2011

    Black and teal – GREAT combo. Is it possible that the tweed is a stiffer, bulkier fabric so that the darts are more evident and not as smooth/flat? That could be the issue.

  9. July 5, 2011

    I was going to say the same thing that Peggy did about the undergarments – that can make a BIG difference for me.

  10. July 5, 2011

    I was going to say the same thing that Peggy did about the undergarments – that can make a BIG difference for me (comparing like an all lace no underwire to a VS Level 4 pushup with padding is like night and day.)

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