How did that happen?
Where to start? Hmm… I guess at the beginning. I worked on my black eyelet dress yesterday. First I dragged out my B5147 TNT pattern, the sheath dress. Remember it?
I took out the original pattern sheets and my muslin pattern with all the alterations added to it and which I use to cut out new versions. I compared them together to see where they differed and where they were the same. I compared my muslin pattern to my already made dresses and the tweed wadder. The twill silk B5147 still fits rather well. The wedding brocade B5147 fits fine too. The wadder is still a wadder. The muslin pattern laid over all them matches. I still cannot figure out why the wadder’s darts are too high.
So I went with a hunch and lowered the bust dart by 1/2 an inch on my muslin pattern. Apparently, my girls are just hanging out a little lower now. (sobby sob sob) I basted the front bust and fisheye darts to test out my hunch. I basted the dress together and tried it on. It looks pretty good except I need to lower the fisheye darts by a 1/2 inch now in front. It was midnight before I got to this stage, so sorry, no photographic evidence.
I still don’t understand why the original dart position doesn’t work on the tweed wadder but does on the silk twill. It just doesn’t make sense to me. And now the black eyelet needs a lower bust and fisheye dart as well. So weird. I tried on all my B5147’s and they all fit, well, except for the wadder.
By the way, I underlined the black eyelet with the teal voile. It looks great! Of course, had I remembered Trena’s underlining/hong kong finish technique, I would be a happier person right now. Actually, though, since I was basting the side seams and all the darts, it probably wouldn’t have been a good idea to do that finish on a possibly iffy fit.
Here’s a shot of my underlining basting. I did think to use Claudine’s suggestion of basting the cut fashion fabric pieces to the underlining fabric first and then cutting the underlining fabric after. That was a super time saver! Thanks Claudine!
Today I will finish the following:
- move the front fisheye darts down 1/2 an inch and maybe make them 1/2 inch longer. I am having some poufiness around my fluff (not an attractive look I assure you)
- sew the front darts permanently
- sew the side seams permanently
- bind the armscyes and neckline with black bias tape
- hem the dress
The zipper will have to wait until Tuesday as I could not find a long enough black invisible zip anywhere in my stash. I am really bummed about that. I could have sworn I had one. I guess a visit to P&S is now planned for lunch time tomorrow.
Happy 4th to my fellow U.S. sewists! And happy sewing!