Skip to content

It’s a design feature and I’m sticking to that story

2011 February 3
by elizabeth_admin

So my friends, yes, I did sew last night.  I was able to accomplish the following:

  • lengthened the two bottom pleats at the tummy area
  • further took in the middle panel on the other side of the pleats to relieve some of the lingering (malingering?) poofiness in that area
  • reinforced the new shoulder seams
  • adjusted the shoulder seams of the facing to fit the new neckline
  • sewed “darts” in the back neckline and facing
  • reattached the facing
  • sewed a permanent zigzag stitch over all the previously basted princess and side seams
  • serged all the seam allowances

Wow, all written out that seems like a lot for one evening.  *patting self on back*

I love the overall fit of the dress now.  The poofiness is gone now and everything lies smoothly to the casual observer…

Except for the back neck.  The darts look like a child with no sewing experience sewed them.  They poke out at the dart tips.  The zipper goes up too high on my nape.  In short, the back neckline is a fiasco.  I’m so thankful I have long hair to cover it up.  If I had the patience of a saint and the time to do so, I would cut the back neckline lower and reinsert the zipper to the right height.  But, I don’t have the patience of a saint and my self-imposed deadline of finishing it tonight does not allow for me to do that.  I still have the sleeves to insert tonight and the hems (sleeves and skirt) and other small finishing details.  I think that might be doable in one evening. 

I did not bother to transfer any of the extensive changes I made to this dress to my pattern because I am going to have to start over with a sz 12 if I make this in a double knit again.  If I do it in a woven, I will have to muslin it again. 

 I am considering this version a wearable muslin.  If I ever redo the back neckline, facing and zipper, it will be upgraded to dress status. 

Wish me luck people!  I’m gonna need it.  And let’s hope for a good hair day tomorrow while we’re at it too, shall we?

4 Responses leave one →
  1. February 3, 2011

    good luck!

    i’m a big fan of cardigans to cover back fitting issues. 😉 i have a swayback that i’m still in denial about, so i lean on that perhaps more than i should admit…

  2. Chetarina permalink
    February 3, 2011

    Good luck! In this post you keep saying “if” you make it again. I think you asked in an earlier post if the dress was too unique to make more than one. I know this dress has sleeves, but I think it looks nice wtihout them- maybe the next one for summer. So…I think you should made it again without sleeves. IMO. Good luck though!

  3. Marie-Christine permalink
    February 4, 2011

    Love the good hair solution to back neck problems :-). There’s also the cardigan wendy suggests, or my favorite: the scarf, both totally justified in winter.

    Before you attack the sleeves, you might want to check that there isn’t a lot of ease in that seam, so that you can just plonk it in without a struggle… http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/ You can shave a bit off the top and/or the sides, even if you don’t get to the perfect measurement it’s better than dealing with a flopping 2″ extra as is often the case..

  4. Mae Wilson permalink
    February 4, 2011

    I often find the back neck is too big, and I drop the neck to get rid of the problem. I never reinsert the zipper, I just cut off the excess at the top.

Leave a Reply

Note: You can use basic XHTML in your comments. Your email address will never be published.

Subscribe to this comment feed via RSS

  • Follow SEWN...
  • My Weapons of Mass Construction

    Singer Featherweight 221 (1938)
    Baby Lock Imagine
    Brother 2340CV
    Husqvarna Viking Emerald 183
    RIP: Brother 1034D
  • Translation


  • I’m a proud member of




  • I support

    Project 95
  • Archives

  • Categories

  • The Trench Sew Along