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Jalie-palooza Fail

2011 January 12
by elizabeth_admin

Lindsay T asked about our sewing failures yesterday.  So now I am holding her personally responsible for causing last night’s sewing to be a complete and utter wadder.  😉

I have been slow to get on the Jalie bandwagon, but Cidell, Eugenia, and Karen and their recent Jalie successes have slowly been infiltrating my sewing thoughts and had finally convinced me to try this little independent pattern company.  I have had this Jalie top in my pattern stash for a while and am in desperate need of some tops.  So enter Jalie 2806. 

I decided to make the sleeveless, gathered view, in other words, the easiest view on the envelope.  I have several knits in my stash that I can use for muslin purposes that, if the muslins worked out, I wouldn’t actually mind wearing.  The one I chose to work with last night was actually a $5 yard remnant from Kashi at Metro Textiles.  It has a really regular pattern to the print, so it was really easy to get the folded fabric on grain for once.  Phew! 

However, the only negative about the print was that it required careful placement to avoid a pastie disaster.  I would link to a pastie picture, but I don’t want that in my google search history if you know what I mean.  I will rely upon you to do the requisite research.  I tissue fitted the front bodice pattern to mark the bust point and then confidently placed my pattern on the fabric and cut away.

I happily followed the great Jalie directions.  I was fancy schmancy and used a contrast fabric (black) for my neck binding.  And I serged away.

I was hopeful that this top would be the first of many, hence the term, Jalie-palooza.  But the best laid plans of mice and men and all that…  The first thing I noticed was that it was really hard to gather a knit fabric so close to the fabric’s edge.  The second thing I noticed was that my first time attaching a neck binding using the Jalie method was not spectacular and that I didn’t like how the serged seam allowance kept flipping out.  Am I supposed to topstitch this down?  If so, it’s not in the directions.  The neck binding width after attaching is pretty thin.  The third thing I noticed were my pasties.  I had managed to carefully and perfectly place medallions on both of my bust points.  If I adjusted how I wore the blouse so they did not lay directly on the bust points, the top looked like it didn’t fit well.  The fourth thing I noticed was how terrible and uneven my gathers looked.  The bad gathering caused the mid-point of the top to drape concavely within my cleavage.  Not a great look I’m telling you.

The overall fit was meh.  It looks like there is ease built into this top judging from the pattern picture, so my problem is probably that I picked one size too small to make.  I used the U size.  If I try this again, I will make it up in the V size. 


I am always picking a size too small. 

*sniff sniff*

Here are some pics (not on me, but in the bathroom on a hanger).  Any suggestions on further Jalie experimentation would be greatly appreciated.

unsatisfactory neck binding with seam allowance flip-out-itis


unfortunate pastie-itis


Tonight…. some jammies for Jack.  At least I know he doesn’t have fit issues. 

Happy sewing everyone.

10 Responses leave one →
  1. January 12, 2011

    Oh, and that fabric is so cute too!!

    Re the gathers – pin the bejeezus out of them to get them evenly spaced and sew over the pins to hold the gathers (before the binding step).

    Re the binding – it doesn’t look like your binding strip is wide enough, but I can’t tell for sure. I’m looking at the back neckline and the binding should be coming up and over the edge, covering the serging. You would then stitch in the ditch from the front. I have this pattern (one of my TNTs) but I’m not sure of Jalie’s method. There’s also a popular knit binding video by Sarah Veblon (I think) on the Threads site somewhere. I wish I had the link for you but maybe someone else will.

    Hope this helps, and don’t give up. This is a great pattern and will be for you too once you get these issues worked out.

  2. January 12, 2011

    Oh, thanks for sharing your challenges so I can learn from you. I too am late on the Jalie bandwagon and just swore out loud as I traced the pattern.

  3. Anita permalink
    January 12, 2011

    Did you use 5/8″ seam allowances? I believe Jalie only uses 1/4″ inch and if you haven’t sewn them before it’s easy to miss. That might account for the narrow neck band, the neck band flipping out and the slightly too small issue. Just some thoughts – my first blog comment ever!

    • January 13, 2011

      This was my first thought, too! Using 5/8 instead of 1/4 would account for the gathering being so close as well as the binding…

  4. January 12, 2011

    I am pretty sure you get bonus kharma points for using your wadder to amuse others.
    And those pasties are indeed amusing.

  5. January 12, 2011

    Oh, and the fabric is so awesome! The only Jalie pattern I’ve made is the stretch jeans, and I was pretty happy with them. Well, it looks great on the hanger, and I wouldn’t have noticed anything off with the gathers. Maybe if you can fix the neckband you can sell it on SEWN Marketplace? 😉

  6. January 12, 2011

    Try again! No, really do. Jalie patterns are great. There’s lots of different ways of putting on binding, find your favourite way and use that. Like Debbie said, use lots of pins with the gathering.
    I’ve made the top in that pattern – the lightest one in the picture but not the gathered one that you did and found it to be great.
    And you can definitely topstitch – that’s your choice!! 🙂

  7. January 13, 2011

    What a shame! I love the fabric. I haven’t used Jalie yet, either, so no help there. Just wadder sympathy. Everyone has wadders now and again.

  8. January 13, 2011

    The motif placement is rather unfortunate, but I think you’re being too hard on yourself about the neck binding!

  9. January 14, 2011

    Gorgeous fabric – pity it didn’t turn out. 🙁

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