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Muslin: V8584

2011 July 9
by elizabeth_admin

The last two nights, I have been muslining my friends.  Yes, I just coined a new verb.  To muslin.  I muslined.  And have been muslining.  Have you been muslining?  Use my new verb in good health!

I muslined two patterns, but only one will have photographic evidence.  I’ll explain more later.

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First up, Vogue 8584, a simple, pull on, elasticized waist straightish leg pant.    It’s relatively  easy to cut out and sew up if you plan on view B  (on bottom right) which has no pocketses (to use Gollum-speak).  I used view A’s length to save on muslin and sewed up a straight 14 at first.  Here are the only changes I need to make to adjust the fit:

  • I needed to let out the side seams about 1/4 inch for a full increase of 1/2 inch ease on each pant leg.  This really made all the difference in how the pant legs draped/fell.  I will probably add the additional ease starting from the hip on down the entire leg.  My thighs are a little wider than my hips, so they need a little more room.
  • The waist as drawn on these pants is really high.  About 2 inches too high.  So if I rest the waistband as drafted on my natural waist, the crotch is two inches too low.  I tried rolling the waistband once over itself and that seemed to correct the problem.  When I use my linen for this pattern, I will just chop off two inches from the top of the pattern and move the fold line down.
Here are my crappy night pictures taken with my point and shoot camera whose settings have mysteriously been changed by the little boy who lives with me.  I seem to be incapable of resetting the camera.
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Let’s ignore the unflattering length of this muslin, shall we?  I just didn’t want to waste any more muslin than I had to but still wanted to see how full the leg was and see how it draped.
I had been really worried about the bulk at the waist when using this pattern because of the elasticized waist, but it’s actually not that bad.  I was pleasantly surprised.  I think it has something to do with all the top stitching of the waistband.  It really contains the gathering.
Here are the things I like so far:
  • I love the front view, not a whole of lot of wrinkles there
  • I was pleasantly surprised by the side view, it’s not as “fattening” as I thought it would be.
Something I don’t like:
  • The back view looks a bit wide, dontcha think?  Not sure how to remedy that situation.  Might have to ignore it, or the linen might behave in an entirely different and better way than this muslin, i.e., have more drape.
As for the second muslin of which there is no photographic evidence…

KS 3614

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Well, the reason for that is while muslining (there’s my new verb again) Kwik Sew 3614, I made a hot mess of the waistband and completely skipped the fly front zipper.  I just don’t have the heart to subject you to such a sight.  But here’s what I can tell so far about this muslin:
  • I love the crotch curve.  I feel like it was tailor made to my body shape.  Yeah!!!
  • I may have to let out the side seams a titch.  I have smiles at the crotch and butt that I think those smiles are actually groans because the thighs need a little room.  I made a sz medium, fyi.
All in all, I love both patterns.  I love V8584 for the simplicity and ease of the pattern.  It’s perfect for an easy breezy summer linen pant.  And I love the structure and fit of the KS3614 shorts.  Now if I can just figure out how to do the fly zipper front and actually do a good job of the waistband.
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Happy muslining everyone!
8 Responses leave one →
  1. July 10, 2011

    The muslin looks good. Check out http://cyberseams.com for the zipper tutorial.

  2. July 10, 2011

    I think they need to come in at the back too. Perhaps the best method is the pinch in the excess from the centre of the back leg and make the same adjustment on your pattern piece.

  3. July 10, 2011

    The pants are looking great , you suit the shape . As for the fly front please try this Threads tutorial. I tried first time and “got” it .

    http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zippert time and

  4. July 10, 2011

    The pants are looking great , you suit the shape . As for the fly front please try this Threads tutorial. I tried first time and “got” it .

    http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zipper

  5. July 10, 2011

    Musling is my very good friend.

  6. July 10, 2011

    The muslin is looking great. Linen will definitely drape better and you won’t look as “wide” (your word!), not that I think you’re wide to begin with. Really. Ugh, I wish that all came out better, but you know what I mean, right? Right? 😉

  7. July 10, 2011

    I didn’t like the back view either…but the front and side really looks nice.

    How awesome that we are able to make a muslin to see how everything works. It is the only way to sew! 🙂

    M.

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