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NL 6901 Take Two

2010 May 19
by elizabeth_admin

Never one to back down from a fight, I took another stab at New Look 6901.  Yes folks, we’re back to my search for TNTs.

NL 6901

I had read about the cheater FBA for knits on Debbie Cook’s blog and thought I had nothing to lose but some knit fabric as another muslin.  Since my first muslin was GINORMOUS…

1st NL 6901 muslin

Oh sorry, was that too loud?  I decided to go down two sizes from a 16 to a 12.  And since the size 16 was too small in the bust, I chose to go up to the 18 from the armscye and blend it into the waist line.

front cheater FBA

Cheater FBA Back


Shoot, I’m just now wondering if I should have altered the back too?  Well I did and this is where we stand now.

too much fabric at the armscye?

Still a little tight at the bust, but acceptable

I have mixed feelings about this second version.  I am very glad I made this again though.  Fitting is a process.  There is no skipping over steps — it just can’t be done that way.  I love the overall fit of the size 12.  It’s fitted, without being too clingy.  There is definitely more room for the girls this time, but still a few pulling wrinkles across the bust line.  And the drape still falls mostly behind the bust wrinkles; kind of annoying to me.  My gut feeling is that I did the best cheater FBA I could because my side seams are pretty straight.  But I also think that this pattern is just not working for me and I should find another pattern that does.  One more thing, I don’t think the drape neckline works with suit jackets at all.  I would have to wear this solo or maybe with a sweater.  I would feel very exposed without a suit jacket and have to suck in my stomach for 9 hours at work.  Talk about exhausting!

But let me ask all the more experienced fitters out there:  please give me your honest opinion about this top and any suggestions you might have to make it work, if possible. 

And in case you’re wondering, I will most likely finish this top and put it into my work wardrobe rotation.  But I will have to make a skirt to go with it first.    😉  

Happy sewing everyone!

13 Responses leave one →
  1. May 19, 2010

    MUCH better! I think it fits pretty well, actually, and is flattering. I don’t see the extra fabric under the arm or think the top is too tight at the bust. And I have the same fabric – you got it from Gorgeous Fabrics, right? I think I bought 3 yards of it, so it will be a dress sometime in my future.

  2. Darci permalink
    May 19, 2010

    I don’t think that looks too tight across the bust at all. In fact, it’s pretty darn flattering to the girls.

    If that extra bit in the underarm bugs ya, just rip the seam and fix it… I think maybe the cheater FBA is to blame for the “wings”…

    BTW: I’m not seeing where you’d have to suck anything in! The fabric is busy and is great camouflage!

  3. May 19, 2010

    I think it fits really well, except for a little bit of taking in right at the armpit.

    I’ve uploaded a photo of what my basic bodice looks like, and I think yours will end up looking like this.

    See how it bows out where the girls are, but nips in right at the armpit? Doesn’t look like a “normal” pattern piece, but it fits!

    Once I got away from the notion that the pattern needs to look “normal” I got much better fitting results.

    Hope the link works…..

  4. May 19, 2010

    Wow, I think it looks great except for taking it in a little at the armscythe. I always have a problem in that area in pret a porter clothing. How would I fix something already made? Any ideas?

    Love, Mom

  5. May 19, 2010

    I think it looks great!

    Like you I want things to fit perfectly but on a knit it really doesn’t matter that much. I say that because on a woven bad fit is both unflattering and uncomfortable – but on a knit, if the fit is not perfect it’s not that noticeable and there is little or even no discomfort value.

  6. May 19, 2010

    Big improvement!!! As has been said, just pinch in that little bit under the arm and you’ll likely be happier. Next time though, you might be happier with a real FBA. It’s life changing. Debbie has some great tutorials there, too.

  7. May 19, 2010

    Very big improvement on the previous top! It fits you very nicely. I agree with Katie, the cheater FBA worked this time but learn how to do a real FBA. It’s really, really useful and it means you can buy a pattern that fits you well around the neck and shoulders and then all you have to do is adjust for a bigger bust. That’s a lot easier than adjusting for your shoulders and neck. There are lots of tutorials on doing FBA’s on the web. Do you have the book ‘Fit for Real People’?
    That’s really helpful for a lot of fitting issues.

  8. May 20, 2010

    I think you did a great job and the fit is good–just a tiny tweak on the arm and it’s perfect. Anyway perfection is over rated so don’t get carried away. I bought that same fabric too and was glad to see it made into a garment. Seeing your version really helps me with ideas.

  9. May 20, 2010

    I am not an experienced fitter, so all I can say is it looks good from here!

  10. May 20, 2010

    Lovely, I might have to make that pattern soon.

  11. May 21, 2010

    I was just going to suggest what luckylibbet shows. This is from the memory of a summer dress from hell before I got serious about sewing and actually bought a fit book!

  12. Marie-Christine permalink
    May 28, 2010

    Really, it looks better than RTW. And much nicer fabric too :-). But you ought to learn to do an FBA, which is the only thing that can save you. Going out sizes at the armpit is just not the way. Debbie Cook’s tutorials are really excellent, I highly recommend them, they not only work well but they take the pain out of the process :-),

  13. June 2, 2010

    I have that pattern and might have to make it now! I loves me a good cowl neck!

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