Not a pattern review: Butterick 5523
You know that feeling when you’re working with a new pattern, especially a knit pattern, where you just want to plow ahead and cut out and sew right away, but a little voice inside your head says, “Psst, hey there! I think you need an FBA for this pattern.” And then you just plow ahead ignoring the tiny little voice and cut out a straight sz 14 and even muslin the bodice in weird purple fabric and try it on. And you see that you obviously need an FBA, but plow ahead and make the rest of the dress pretending that when you add the skirt onto the dress that it will magically erase the need for an FBA by it’s sheer weight pulling the bodice down and the knit will magically stretch over those “large tracts of land”*.
You know what I’m talking about, don’t you. I know you do. Where you abandon all reason and logic because you arrogantly think the magic sewing machine you’re using will turn all your fitting problems into beautifully fitted clothes just by sheer will alone?
Yeah, that’s the kind of magical thinking I engaged in last night and it gave me this.
I’m sorry, but my ego will not allow me to take a picture of myself in this dress. Fat and pregnant is not a look I want floating on the interwebs until infinity and beyond.
What’s wrong with this dress you ask? Let me count the ways:
- The bodice is too short by about 3 inches
- The fit of the upper shoulders is too big, but the back is too tight.
- The bodice bust is too tight
- The skirt is too big and because the bodice is too short, the dress hangs from boobs, I mean bust. Remember when I talked about the shift dress look on full busted women? Obviously I didn’t remember.
- I did a sloppy job of the pleats and one of them is noticeably off
I really like the look of this dress though. Despite all the mistakes I made with the pattern. Here’s what I need to do if I want to fix it to fit me:
- Go down to the sz 12 pattern and put in a 1.5 to 2 inch FBA a la Steph at 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World
- Take better care of the pleats, this time marking them on the right side of the fabric so I can be more accurate
Here’s to a hopefully better dress with the next version. Cross your fingers for me.