Pattern Review: Jalie 2806
I call this version of Jalie 2806 my 2.5 version. You’ll find out why later in this post.
Pattern Description: Women’s Scoopneck Top
Pattern Sizing: 27 sizes for Women and Children from sz 4-22 for women’s sizes and sz 2-13 for children. I made a sz U based on vanity for the muslin and while it was wearable (i.e. I would not be arrested for indecency), it did not have the wearing ease as shown on the examples (see above picture). I would wear this muslin despite this except for the unfortunate print placement of my fabric which produces a look not unlike pasties. Moving on, for my first successful top, I caved and used size ginormous (aka, sz V). The fit was much more in line with the pattern pictures.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Somewhat. I didn’t use the hem band or any of the sleeve options. I wanted a super quick project and simple top to wear with sweaters and suits.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? LIKES: I liked the simplicity of the pattern and the scoopneck detail in particular as scoopnecks are great on people on the bustier side. DISLIKES: The blouson look might not be the most flattering for a post-baby body, but at least it conceals. I am not sure I am sold on how the pattern directions have you “finish” the sleeveless armscye. I don’t think it looks professional without binding. Admittedly, it is quicker though.
Any difficulties encountered? Whoo boy! The gathering and neckbinding might have been the death of me. But I’m a stubborn person and I wasn’t about to let a simple knit top do me in. No sirree! My binding on the muslin was shoddily attached and much thinner than it looked in the pattern pictures. I used the serger for almost the entire construction of this top. The Jalie directions were not clear when to use the serger and when to use the sewing machine or whether to cut as you serger or not, so I just serged the neckbinding on to the top using a 1/4 seam allowance thereby cutting off some of the width of the neckbinding. For the 2.5 version, I didn’t cut as I serged to attach the neckbinding and the width of the binding was spot on. Now tell me, is this stuff you’re just supposed to know??? I don’t think so. When I use my serger, I usually cut as I go. If you don’t want me to cut, please tell me. I was all pleased with neckbinding being even and the right width when I noticed something funny about the gathers. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take a picture of this stage. The basting stitching was visible from the right side and the seam didn’t catch all the fabric of the body of the top so some of it was poking out. Honestly, I wanted to scream and just give up at this point. It was 10:30pm at night. I was tired. I didn’t want to rip out a serged seam. I wanted to give up.
But I was determined to have this top to wear today, so I persevered. I looked up a tutorial on how to frog serged seams and found on PatternReview.com. I unpicked only the part of the neck band with the gathering and carefully repinned everything again, making sure that nothing would dare to poke out to the right side again, and I serged that mofo to oblivionserged it back together again. Oh about the gathering, because my knit was thin, it was hard to gather it; my sewing machine wanted to eat it. I used tracing paper underneath it as I sewed the basting stitch and that did the trick. Now my neck band and gathering look nice. 🙂 And that’s why this is my version 2.5 of the Jalie 2806 scoop neck top.
One more difficulty I encountered was in using my twin needle. Because the knit was so thin, it was really hard to get a good result with the twin needle. I tried everything in the book (stretch twin needle, low thread tension, longer stitch, slow sewing). If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
Fabric used: I’m just guessing on fabric content here, but probably a rayon jersey. It was a remnant from Kashi at Metro Textile. I loved the black and white graphic look of it. It’s great for work. It’s rather thin though, so twin needling it was a little challenging. I got some tunneling despite using all the tricks in the book.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn’t use the hem band that is part of the pattern because I wanted a quick sew, but other than that no changes were made to the pattern. If I make this again, I might shorten it because it is a little on the long side and that’s without me adding the hem band.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and no. I like how quick it is and perfect for a work wardrobe. It’s definitely a wardrobe staple, but I think the drapeyness of the top is not that flattering. I’m on the fence right now. Oh who am I kidding. Now that I’ve figured out the quirks of this pattern and how to serge it properly, I should just make three more and increase my work wardrobe. I would definitely recommend it to others as long as they take my pattern review as a cautionary tale and use the tips I discovered in my process as regards the neckbinding and gathering.
Conclusion: I like the top. It’s a great wardrobe staple, but I might look for something a little more shaped in the torso area in the future. I am excited to see what else Jalie has to offer and will definitely seek out more of their patterns.