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Pattern Review: Jalie 2806

2011 January 14
by elizabeth_admin

I call this version of Jalie 2806 my 2.5 version.  You’ll find out why later in this post.

Pattern Description:  Women’s Scoopneck Top

Pattern Sizing:  27 sizes for Women and Children from sz 4-22 for women’s sizes and sz 2-13 for children.  I made a sz U based on vanity for the muslin and while it was wearable (i.e. I would not be arrested for indecency), it did not have the wearing ease as shown on the examples (see above picture).  I would wear this muslin despite this except for the unfortunate print placement of my fabric which produces a look not unlike pasties.  Moving on, for my first successful top, I caved and used size ginormous (aka, sz V).  The fit was much more in line with the pattern pictures.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Somewhat.  I didn’t use the hem band or any of the sleeve options.  I wanted a super quick project and simple top to wear with sweaters and suits.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? LIKES:  I liked the simplicity of the pattern and the scoopneck detail in particular as scoopnecks are great on people on the bustier side.  DISLIKES: The blouson look might not be the most flattering for a post-baby body, but at least it conceals.  I am not sure I am sold on how the pattern directions have you “finish” the sleeveless armscye.  I don’t think it looks professional without binding.  Admittedly, it is quicker though. 

Any difficulties encountered?  Whoo boy!  The gathering and neckbinding might have been the death of me.  But I’m a stubborn person and I wasn’t about to let a simple knit top do me in.  No sirree!  My binding on the muslin was shoddily attached and much thinner than it looked in the pattern pictures.  I used the serger for almost the entire construction of this top.  The Jalie directions were not clear when to use the serger and when to use the sewing machine or whether to cut as you serger or not, so I just serged the neckbinding on to the top using a 1/4 seam allowance thereby cutting off some of the width of the neckbinding.  For the 2.5 version, I didn’t cut as I serged to attach the neckbinding and the width of the binding was spot on.  Now tell me, is this stuff you’re just supposed to know???  I don’t think so.  When I use my serger, I usually cut as I go.  If you don’t want me to cut, please tell me.  I was all pleased with neckbinding being even and the right width when I noticed something funny about the gathers.  Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take a picture of this stage.  The basting stitching was visible from the right side and the seam didn’t catch all the fabric of the body of the top so some of it was poking out.  Honestly, I wanted to scream and just give up at this point.  It was 10:30pm at night.  I was tired.  I didn’t want to rip out a serged seam.  I wanted to give up.   

But I was determined to have this top to wear today, so I persevered.  I looked up a tutorial on how to frog serged seams and found on PatternReview.com.  I unpicked only the part of the neck band with the gathering and carefully repinned everything again, making sure that nothing would dare to poke out to the right side again, and I serged that mofo to oblivionserged it back together again.  Oh about the gathering, because my knit was thin, it was hard to gather it; my sewing machine wanted to eat it.  I used tracing paper underneath it as I sewed the basting stitch and that did the trick.  Now my neck band and gathering look nice.  🙂  And that’s why this is my version 2.5 of the Jalie 2806 scoop neck top.

 

One more difficulty I encountered was in using my twin needle.  Because the knit was so thin, it was really hard to get a good result with the twin needle.  I tried everything in the book (stretch twin needle, low thread tension, longer stitch, slow sewing).  If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.

 

Fabric used:  I’m just guessing on fabric content here, but probably a rayon jersey.  It was a remnant from Kashi at Metro Textile.  I loved the black and white graphic look of it.  It’s great for work.  It’s rather thin though, so twin needling it was a little challenging.  I got some tunneling despite using all the tricks in the book.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn’t use the hem band that is part of the pattern because I wanted a quick sew, but other than that no changes were made to the pattern.  If I make this again, I might shorten it because it is a little on the long side and that’s without me adding the hem band.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and no.  I like how quick it is and perfect for a work wardrobe.  It’s definitely a wardrobe staple, but I think the drapeyness of the top is not that flattering.  I’m on the fence right now.  Oh who am I kidding.  Now that I’ve figured out the quirks of this pattern and how to serge it properly, I should just make three more and increase my work wardrobe.  I would definitely recommend it to others as long as they take my pattern review as a cautionary tale and use the tips I discovered in my process as regards the neckbinding and gathering.

Conclusion:  I like the top.  It’s a great wardrobe staple, but I might look for something a little more shaped in the torso area in the future.  I am excited to see what else Jalie has to offer and will definitely seek out more of their patterns.

10 Responses leave one →
  1. January 14, 2011

    One tip that I have picked up for thin/awkward/slippy knits is to use a bit of spray starch. It washes out, but seems to make the fabric a lot more stable for sewing with.

    That said, you still look like you’ve done a really good job with this! I love the fabric – interesting but not too interesting as it were, which is ideal for work tops.

  2. January 14, 2011

    I’ve used wash-away stabilizer (the kind they use for embroidery) to help with the tunneling of the double needle in knits. I’d be tempted to try a light interfacing strip even, myself. My biggest problem with twin needle stitching, though, has been tunneling AFTER stitching, when the area is stretched during wear. No idea what to do about this except get a coverstitch machine! 😉

    The more I look at this pattern, the more in like it. I have a hard time wrapping my head around tunic/drapey tops but really they do look nice, and this is very similar to my fave RTW shirt at the moment….

  3. Becky permalink
    January 14, 2011

    Use your tracing paper under the twin needle hem. Love the top.

  4. January 14, 2011

    Excellent review and I do love that fabric. Maybe try it with a belt and see if you like that look better?

  5. January 14, 2011

    I’ve had more tunneling with the double needle that is narrow versus the wider one? I’ll have to look up the Schmetz model numbers. I know I accidentally used a blue double needle on a knit, and realized afterwards it was either for denim or was just a general needle. It made a much nicer hem than the red ones that are labeled for knits!

    I have this pattern, too, but I haven’t made it up yet. I didn’t even notice until you mentioned it that it’s so LONG!

  6. Jacqui permalink
    January 15, 2011

    I really love the fabric!

    I’ve had success using Woolly Nylon thread in the bobbin for less tunneling in thin knits. I did have to hand wind the bobbin. I have a top loading bobbin and I left a long strand hanging out that came up under the needle after running a few sample stitches.

  7. January 16, 2011

    Hi Elizabeth. Congratulations on your new blog (I lost you for a while so I’m very happy to have found you again!). I love your Jalie top – I think you have done a brilliant job. Knits can be so tricky and every fabric seems to behave differently. I love the print and colours – black and white always look good. Personally, I really like this pattern and have managed to get some nice tops out of it – and I may yet make a few more because, as you say, they make such good wardrobe staples. Rather amusingly I had no problems with the neckband until I made my fourth one, then full of over-confidence I managed to screw it up – huh! I haven’t tried the sleeveless version yet but I think I will definitely have to make one or two for summer.

  8. January 16, 2011

    Isn’t space always the problem? I’m in the midst (as always) downsizing right now. I need to figure out what not to put back into my sewing room (if it ever gets finished). Elizabeth, thanks for your comment. Love the new name of your blog – so fitting and professional. And that top, loving it! Where did you get that print?

  9. NuJoi permalink
    January 16, 2011

    Oh that print is to die for. Great top.

  10. riley permalink
    January 18, 2011

    “Sewist”…blech! This word is so annoying. I’m starting a one-woman campaign to end the use of this word. If we don’t want to call ourselves “seamstress”, or “tailor”, could we please consider using the word “sewer” instead of “sewist”.

    I’m new to your blog. Love what I read (except the aforementioned “sewist”), and can’t wait to read what’s next.

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