Pattern Review – New Look 6022
Pattern Description: Misses’ loose-fitting dresses six sizes in one (View A with longer puff sleeves with gathered center; View B with a cap sleeve; View C is the same as B but with a sash added; and View D is sleeveless with a contrast band at the hem), plus a bag pattern.
Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6-16
I think I made it a titch larger than a 12. Some reviewers said that this pattern ran large. I think the measurements given for the different sizes and the finished garment size are very true. When I made a muslin in sz 10 based on those reviews, I could barely get the dress over my body and removed my underwear in the process. Not a great moment in history, I assure you. Then I cut another muslin in a sz 12 in the bodice and armscye, taking the side seams out to a sz 16. I was swimming in the dress. I basted the side seams back to a little over a sz 12 and found nirvana. 😉 To be honest, I don’t understand how there is such a big difference in size between the sz 10 and sz 12 when on the pattern pieces, the difference is negligible. Strange!
And a dire warning on the sleeves, they are made for stick arm people. I had to go up 2 sizes in the sleeve width (keeping the sleeve cap/head at a sz 12) and use a small seam allowance to get a good fit on the sleeves. Make sure you muslin the sleeves to check for fit!
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! Except for the fact that I’m not thin like the model (or any of the other reviewers of this pattern gosh darn it!). *sigh*
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very easy to follow. Although they don’t mention any finishing of the seams, but if you are an experienced sew-er, you will know to do that.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- My favorite part was that it was loose fitting. I am a little tired of constantly fitting close-fitting sheath dresses, especially with my weight fluctuating so much lately. So a loose-fitting shift dress was just the ticket. That being said though, there was still some fitting to do so I didn’t end up looking like I was wearing a sack.
- I loved the simplicity of the pattern.
- None really.
Fabric Used: Cotton (?) Print from Jomar’s from PR Weekend in Philly 2010. Originally I thought this was a plain cotton print, but after pre-treating it, I think it might have some other fiber in it as the hand is almost an organza in stiffness. I don’t think the other fiber content is polyester because it doesn’t feel like that. Maybe it’s silk. To be honest, I really don’t know. Was this the best fabric to use for this dress? Probably not as it’s not as drapey as I wanted it to be. It takes a press like you wouldn’t believe, so I expect it wrinkles like the dickens too. I think this dress needs a lot drape in the fabric; a drapey fabric would give the dress movement because of the loose fit. Unfortunately, all the drapey fabrics I had on hand that were pre-treated were too sheer and I didn’t want to go to the trouble of adding a lining to this dress.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- As mentioned above, I fiddled with the side seams to get the loose-fitting look of the pattern envelope. I added shaping to the side seams to eliminate some of the rectangular shape and give the dress some curves.
- Also, I decided to sew up the back all the way to the top. I didn’t want to fool with adding a button or having that kind of closure in the back. The dress is still easy to get on and off, so no worries on that account. I might add it back in on the next version.
- Because I increased the width of the sleeves to accommodate my non-stick-like arms, I had excess fabric to ease into the armscye. Since the sleeve was already pleated (four for each sleeve), I just added two more pleats to each sleeve on either side of the pattern’s original pleats. It doesn’t really add any extra poofiness and it looks in keeping with the original design. I don’t think anyone would notice this difference, even an experienced sew-er.
- I added lace hem tape to finish my hem. I think it’s really pretty. 🙂
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will definitely sew this again! I love this dress, especially after I have taken the time and two muslins to fit it to my shape. I am thinking of using a cream and orange floral silk twill in my stash bought from FabricMart last year. If it’s not sheer, I am definitely going to use that. I think the large scale print would look fabulous in this simple dress which will showcase it to perfection.
I would definitely recommend this to any level of sewist. It’s a great dress, perfect to show off a special fabric. The simple style can be dressed up or down. Just be careful to be honest about your measurements and don’t fantasy cut a smaller size to appease your ego. You will be sorry when your underwear comes off as you wiggle a too small dress on. Trust me!
Conclusion: Great dress! Perfect for the summer.
Ok, I wore my dress all day today. My sister’s family and we (and a close family friend) had our Memorial Day “picnic” today instead of tomorrow. I found the dress very comfortable to wear, but everyone agreed the cotton print was too casual for the office. I have to admit I am a little disappointed by this. My friend Lisa thought the elastic on the back made the dress too casual for work wear. Hmmm… I don’t know how I could change that… Maybe change the elastic to two fisheye darts or a box pleat? Thoughts anyone?
Of course, my sister was kind enough to take pictures with her super duper camera. Here’s how the dress looks like on the body. I was right, it does wrinkle; but I’m ok with that.
Happy sewing everyone!