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Pattern Review: New Look 6504

2012 February 27
by elizabeth_admin

Despite having bronchitis which really set me back the past week (will the pre-school germs never end?!?!?!), I was able to finish Katie’s birthday dress finally.  Yeah!  Here’s the pattern review…



Pattern Description: Child Dresses.  I made view A, the dress on the child model, but without the applique as my print was quite enough, thank you very much!

Pattern Sizing: 3-8.  I made a straight size 6 as Katie just turned 6!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes and no.  The basic shape is the same, but I used a great print and left off the childish appliques as I mentioned oh once or twice before.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were great, although, I barely looked at them past the facing stage.  I can’t recall if they told you to gather the hem or not though.  You really need to do this to account for the A-line shape of the dress.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I loved the “tabula rasa” of this pattern.  The simple clean lines allow for the fabric to become the star.  And I must admit that it’s a quick sew too!  I actually have no dislikes about the pattern (that is if you don’t include my distaste for appliques).

Fabric Used:  A stretch cotton twill print and ribbon that I purchased at Mood a few weeks ago with a Living Social coupon.  The print is just gorgeous.  I love pink and green together and the scale of the print was perfect for a little girl’s dress.

Pattern changes or design changes made: 

  • Did I mention that I left off the appliques?  haha!  
  • I deepened the hem by about a 1/2 inch.  Of course, this required more gathering, but I was ok with that. 
  • I added top-stitching with a double strand of thread at the neckline, armscyes and hem.  This dress is going to get some hard wear.  It’s not a special occasion dress, so I expect it will be washed frequently.  I didn’t want the facings to keep popping out and I wanted the hem to be sturdy, so a delicate blind hem was not the route to go.
  • I added a ribbon trim to the bodice at about the empire line.  I just guesstimated where that would be and I think it worked out.  I topstitched the ribbon with the pink thread I used for construction and loved the contrast.  I hope the ribbon withstands washing machine.  I did pre-treat it, so hopefully it will survive.



Any new techniques learned during construction of this pattern?  I did add one more technique to my arsenal.  I have seen this one around the interwebs and actually thought to use it before I was too deep into my construction.  I used Pam Erny’s No Bulk Facing Tutorial for the facing on this dress.  I love it!  It looks so nice on the inside.  It’s a clean finish with no scratchy serger thread exposed to irritate a kid’s skin.  I will definitely be using this technique from now on.  Love. It.


Any problems encountered while sewing this pattern? 

  • Design indecision.  I had always planned to use the ribbon as trim. but when I considered the A-line shape of the dress, I thought it would be problematic to keep straight at the bottom of the skirt.  So I considered a faux placket, the faux empire waist, or pockets.  I ended up thinking the placket was too busy for the print and I didn’t have enough fabric left over to make pockets that print matched, so I went with the empire waist.  In the end, I love the simplicity of this design decision as it really does let the print be the star of the dress.  If anyone can let me know the trick of how to add ribbon trim to the hem of an A-line dress, please do!
  • My button holes!!!  ARGH, I only just managed to get them to work in the end.  I did a test sample and it was beautiful, but for some reason, on shoulder straps, my button-holer just doesn’t want to complete the button-hole and gets stuck in the middle (I think because of the bulk of the ends of the straps).  I kept trying to adjust for it by sternly “guiding” my fabric, but was only able to compensate a little for the problem.  In the end, the imperfections are hidden by the buttons, so I made it work, but I really can’t think of a workaround for this problem.  Has anyone else had this kind of problem?  How did you deal with it?


Which sewing machine(s) did you use for construction?  I must admit to cheating on my Singer Featherweight for this make.  I used my Viking instead.  I haven’t yet purchased enough bobbins for my Featherweight and didn’t have any free to use for this project, so I just went the easiest route.  I think the Singer would have had better topstitching, so I have learned my lesson and will put in an order for more bobbins pronto!

Will you sew it again or recommend it to others?  I will definitely sew this pattern again.  It’s a great blank canvas for a print to be showcased.  Not to mention, it’s a quick sew once you’re done dithering about trim placement.

Conclusion:  Love this dress!  And I hear Katie loves it too.  It’s always great to get positive feedback.  I hope to have a picture of her in the dress soon.  But for now, this hanger picture will have to suffice.



What’s next?  Not sure.  Maybe another Burda bat wing top to cleanse the palate.  We’ll see. 

Happy sewing everyone!

11 Responses leave one →
  1. February 27, 2012

    actually, no need to order–they sell featherweight bobbins at pacific trim! i’m sure you can get them in other garment district shops as well.

  2. February 27, 2012

    Cute dress! She will love it.

    Grosgrain ribbon is pretty shape-able. You have to buy the grosgrain with the wavy edge, which is sometimes called petersham. I did a really lame tutorial here:

  3. February 27, 2012

    cute! that pink pattern is just the cheeriest, summeriest print & totally makes the dress 🙂

  4. February 27, 2012

    Super cute! Hope you are feeling better from the attack of the germs…

  5. February 27, 2012

    Oh, adorable! So glad you went with the empire-line ribbon :).

    I agree with Claudine about the grosgrain/petersham. You could *try* running a gathering line along one edge of a regular ribbon, but I don’t know that it would look great. Or make a bias band in a complementary solid colour—if you got a satin, that could look like shiny ribbon.

  6. February 27, 2012

    Soooo very cute!

  7. February 28, 2012

    Gorgeous and I really like the contrast green. I will need to check this pattern out for my girls.

    Welcome back, nearly, to the land of the living too!

  8. February 28, 2012

    This is the cutest dress – lucky Katie!!

  9. February 28, 2012

    So cute; I just love the ribbon trim. I’ll bet the lucky birthday girl looks completely adorable!

  10. February 28, 2012

    It’s so pretty! I truly love those pinks and greens. I’m sorry to hear about the preschool germs, and yes, they do eventually decided to leave!

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