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Pattern Review: Vogue 1247 — Pantone 2013 Skirt

2013 March 5
by elizabeth_admin

Remember when I searched high and low for a Kelly green fabric and couldn’t find any until I did (at Apple Annie Fabrics)?  And then I ordered it on-line because I had to have a Kelly green skirt right then and there?  And remember how, when the perfect Kelly green fabric arrived and I didn’t immediately sew it up?  And then remember how I packed the Kelly green fabric in my suitcase when I moved to San Diego last summer so I could use it right away to make that Kelly green skirt but then never did?  Yeah me too.

Well, I finally have a Kelly green skirt today.  :)   And I think it was meant to be too.  Because Pantone declared Emerald Green as the Color of the Year for 2013.  To me Kelly green and Emerald green are basically the same color for all intents and purposes.  Now if I had sewn this fabric up last year, it would have been too early.  Obviously this fabric was meant to marinate in the stash until it was Pantone’s color of the year.  Obvs.

For my Kelly green skirt, I used the very popular Vogue 1247 skirt pattern.  And here’s my review…

 

V1247

 

Pattern Description:  Misses’ Top and Skirt by designer Rachel Comey

Pattern Sizing:  DD (12-18).  I muslined a size 14 in non-stretch muslin and then cut out a sz 16 in stretch cotton sateen and then needed to go back to the size 14.  Live and learn.

IMG_4544

Kangaroo pockets

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes and no.  The photo looks more A-line on the model and in the line drawing.  On me, it was more of a straight skirt.  Not sure why.  I think it might be more flattering as an A-line skirt on me.  Hmmm…

invisible zipper

invisible zipper

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  I guess.  Since there are in-seam yoke pockets, it took me a few reads to understand how to sew that part together.  There was no instruction as to which way to press the back yoke seam and I guessed wrong.  I also deviated from the pattern quite a bit, so I didn’t read all of the directions or follow them exactly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  This is a tricky question, because some of my likes became dislikes after I sewed up the pattern.  For instance, I liked the in-seam yoke pockets (kangaroo pockets) on the pattern, but sewn up on me, they just emphasized my post baby belly.  Not happy about that.  I liked the A-line shape of the pattern on the photo, but sewn up and on me, the A-line shape became a straight skirt.

IMG_4541

 

Fabric used: A stretch cotton sateen in Kelly green from Apple Annie Fabrics online.  I love the fabric, love the sheen of the sateen, but made up in this skirt pattern, it really accentuates every lump and bump and the kangaroo pockets are more pronounced than I think they should be.  Maybe this wasn’t a great choice for this skirt or for my particular body.  On a slimmer, less lumpy body, maybe this fabric would work for this pattern.  It is the perfect weight for a skirt (without cross body seams) or pant and sewed up like a dream.

IMG_4549

interfaced facing, silk organza and stay tape stabilization, and serged pocket bags

 

stabilized pockets

stabilized pockets

 

 

Pattern changes or design changes made:  Whoo boy, let me count the changes:

  1. Took off the waist band and used Beth’s method of stay tape and organza to stabilize the waistline.  I also emailed Beth with some questions I had on how to use this method.  She was very gracious with her time and expertise.  Thanks Beth!
  2. Added an interfaced waistline facing.  I just created a pattern piece from the waist of the yoke with the darts already sewn up about 2.5 inches wide.
  3. Left off all the bias seam binding.  I did pin some binding to my pocket bags, but it was so bulky and ugly, I knew I would hate it and that it would show through on the skirt, that I removed it and serged all the seam allowances instead.
  4. I added three inches to the length of the skirt since it was so short it was obscene (or at least it would be on me).  And I sewed a one inch hem.
  5. I top stitched my hem with beautiful Kelly green topstitching thread.
  6. The back of the skirt was a little too full on me with all sorts of drapey folds that looked unattractive so I took almost a 1 inch wedge from the CB seam from the bottom of the skirt tapering up to the zipper.  Kind of a reverse sway back, haha.  This is probably why the skirt is not very A-line on me.  If I make this again and want it more A-line, will put the wedge back at the side seams instead.
IMG_4543

topstitching

 

Which sewing machine(s) did you use for construction?  I used my Singer Featherweight for the majority of the construction and topstitching, my Husqvarna Emerald 183 for the invisible zipper insertion, and the Brother 1034C serger for the seam allowances.

Will you sew it again or recommend it to others?  I’m not sure I will sew this skirt again.  I was hoping it would become a TNT skirt for me, but I don’t like the design details on me with my tummy.  Also I feel the pocket edges show through in an unattractive way.  Not sure how I would fix that.  It is a cute skirt for a skinny, boyish body though.  And the kangaroo pockets detail is really cute on most everybody else.

Conclusion:  Cute skirt pattern, but not for my body.  I would definitely recommend it to others though.  But don’t bother with the bias binding — it’s a lot of work for a less than ideal and bulky finish when an overcast edge or serged finish will do nicely.  Will I wear my skirt?  Probably, but I don’t think it will be my favorite go to outfit this summer.

IMG_4553

 

IMG_4556

 

 

Next up?  Thor’s bday present which is now officially late since his birthday was this past weekend.  :(

 

19 Responses leave one →
  1. March 5, 2013

    Wow, great skirt! Nice job on the invisible zipper. I am now in the process of painting my foyer kelly green. Great minds think slightly differently.

  2. mary permalink
    March 5, 2013

    I like yours better as a “straight” skirt. Beautiful!

  3. March 5, 2013

    It looks great from here, I guess you could just cut the pockets out and sew up the front seam, but honestly I can’t see any bulk there at all. The colour is awesome and this is definitely the year to wear your skirt!

  4. March 6, 2013

    Wow I think it looks fantastic… I love the colour and the stripy shirt makes it pop. I think it makes you look very slim on the bottom half. I have made one of these in a corduroy (not blogged yet still from last winter) I also only overlocked the seams and made a self drafted facing instead of a waistband, which I think suits this skirt better than a waistband anyway. Great job; wear with pride.

  5. Rosie permalink
    March 6, 2013

    I happen to love the skirt on you the way it is as opposed to an A-line style. The color is absolutely lovely.

  6. March 6, 2013

    Great color! And the skirt looks so cute — not bulky at all.

  7. March 6, 2013

    Cool!! Nice skirt! and right in time for St.Patty’s day!

  8. March 6, 2013

    oh, pretty green! makes me want one!

  9. March 6, 2013

    Great color, great fit. I love it.

  10. Ruth permalink
    March 6, 2013

    I like your skirt but, just in passing, a vertical wedge is not a swayback alteration. A swayback alteration is like a horizontal dart with the widest part of the dart shape at the CB and the point at the side seam. You cut this dart shape out of your pattern paper (you can cut from CB to side seam and then lap the paper at centre back. You then straighten the CB seam. It is usually made about 3″ below the waist. The function of the swayback alteration is to shorten the seam between the waist and the rear. It is not the same as a waist adjustment, although the vast majority of bloggers seem to do a waist adjustment and call it a a swayback adjustment. The clue is that for a swayback adjustment, a CB seam is NOT necessary. You make the adjustment on the pattern paper, straighten the CB and bingo, you can cut it on the fold.

    If you also have a protruding rear, as well as a swayback, you simply put another wedge back in at the height where your rear protrudes. In this way you redistribute the fabric – less over the “dip” in your back, and more over your “pert” rear!

    • elizabeth_admin permalink*
      March 6, 2013

      I was just joking about the reverse swayback. But thanks for the information.

  11. elizabeth_admin permalink*
    March 6, 2013

    Thanks for the compliments gals. I definitely picked the most photogenic pictures of this skirt. I did not want the pouchy tummy ones circling the interwebs forevermore. Oh the horror!

  12. March 7, 2013

    Great colour and as an Aussie have to endorse Kangaroo pockets! Did you change the side seams from the distinct A-line to a more tapered style?

  13. March 7, 2013

    Super colour! Wear it and stick your hands in the pockets – that’ll hide any bumps. Anyway you don’t have a pouchy tummy.

  14. March 7, 2013

    Construction looks great, and the color is amazing! Too bad you aren’t feeling the style. I think it looks good… Hopefully you can get some use out of it because it will be great for the warmer weather coming up in the next few months.

  15. March 7, 2013

    It looks awesome! love the color!

  16. J.Allen permalink
    March 8, 2013

    Dear,
    Your skirt is lovely. The color superb. The styling was excellent.
    I am usually a “lurker” and I very seldom dare to comment but your critique hit a nerve and I felt compelled to comment.
    Do you think you are being to hard on yourself? You are lovely and I do not see the “lumps and bumps”.
    I find when I finish a garment I can ONLY see the flaws in my old body as you see your post baby body! Then I see all of the things I did”wrong” when sewing, revisit all of the decisions I made during the process, etc.
    Perhaps it is the nature of the beast. We certainly must have certain personality traits that compel us to sew for ourselves. In my case it is either OCD or as I prefer the “seeking of excellence”!
    Reading blogs gives me courage as I continue to try to improve in my skills.
    My new tack is to hang up my new project in my closet for a week or two and then I revisit it. Lo and behold, I am almost always delighted. It wasn’t so bad after all and it is almost like having a lovely surprise and a totally new item in my wardrobe.
    Remember we are doing this to make us happy and your skirt made me happy this morning!!!

  17. March 12, 2013

    Yay for your skirt! I’ve been looking for emerald green fabric to make a handbag, and there is definitely a dearth. I don’t know why all the fabric factories aren’t ready with the year’s color as soon as Pantone announces it :-(

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