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Playing favorites

2013 September 18
by elizabeth_admin

I had my second draping class this past Monday.  It was pretty cramped in that classroom with about 40 people AND their dress forms taking up space.  Wow!

The teacher requested that we bring to class four pieces of muslin measured, blocked and ready to drape.  I of course had mis-measured mine and had to tack on  some extra bits so I could more accurately drape.  Tacky!  We played around with different darts.  Our first drape was a waist dart.


Waist dart right side out


Then we draped a side seam bust dart.  The instructor showed us how to drape a neckline dart, a French dart, a shoulder seam dart, and an armscye dart and then told us to pick one of those and drape it ourselves.

I chose the French dart because it seemed to solve the most problems in one fell swoop than all the other darts for people with larger busts.  Also, it just looked more elegant.


French dart inside out


Isn’t that dart gorgeous?  Yepper, the French dart is my favorite dart right now.  I didn’t even know people had favorite darts.

Interesting side note:  I discovered while I draped on my newly padded out form, that although I have marked my bust apex location-wise correct, my darts  extended higher than where I’ve marked my apex (you can see that in both pictures above).  So that means I need to more accurately pad out the bra.  Apparently, I need more padding lower and to fill it out slightly more.    *sigh*

One more interesting side note:  While I was at class this week, I noticed were some promotional posters up at the school stating the income range of different professions within fashion/sewing in this area after obtaining a certificate from this program.  It was a little depressing to learn that a full-time seamstress could only reasonably expect to make at the most about $33K a year.  A line sewer was much less, at around $22K.

Bad news: My dress form already broke.  :/     The little nub that keeps the form onto the base and stops it from swiveling around as you pin broke off.  It was just a piece of plastic that obviously could not handle the stress of traveling to class or my moderate use in class.  So now if I lift it up, the base remains on the floor and when I pin/drape  on it, it swivels away.  Minor annoyances, but still, breaking during my first use?  Not cool.

I think I might try my hand at draping a simple, drape neck, knit top for myself.  The reason I won’t use the Franki pattern is that I want a more simple drape neck.  My fabric is a see through lacy knit that I bought with Kyle when she visited San Diego a while back.  I love this fabric, but I think it needs a simpler pattern to deal with the laciness and to showcase the fabric itself more.  I think it will look great as a drape neck top over a cami or tank top.  Don’t you think?

lacy  knit

lacy knit from Gwen Couture


Happy draping!


6 Responses leave one →
  1. September 18, 2013

    You did so well! Such restraint in describing this procedure! I’m proud of you! 😉

  2. September 18, 2013

    Thanks so much for sharing your class, learning is always good and I could use a few lessons.

  3. September 19, 2013

    It’s great reading about your progress, your class looks really interesting! And it’s really interesting to read about the salaries too. I’m doing an advanced pattern cutting course at the moment and some of the students were saying that you could earn £3o to £40k here in the UK as a flat pattern cutter which is about US $48k to $64k. I’d love to know if that’s true – But I suspect it probably isn’t that much and you are paid on a freelance basis.

  4. September 19, 2013

    I am super interested in seeing how your darts turn out! I just made a dress that had french darts *and* bust darts too and it was too much fullness for my little rack. Or maybe the overall sizing was too big. Or something. Soon I will write about that on my blog.

    I keep eyeing the alphabet fabric I bought at GwenCouture and want to make it up this fall!! Just need to get a TNT t-shirt pattern together….

  5. September 19, 2013

    Interesting! Thanks for sharing your draping experiences. I’m not sure about my favorite darts yet. Pretty annoying stuff to get the fitting right. As on your first side note: is it the under bust curve that’s needs extra padding?

  6. September 24, 2013

    This class sounds so awesome! I am incredibly jealous. And also 40 people–wow! I wouldn’t have thought there would be so much interest. I guess Project Runway is having an effect.

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