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S2614 Muslin

2011 March 1
by elizabeth_admin

Simplicity 2614


Last night, I came home from work and picked up my speedily shipped Simplicity 2614, a pleasant and most appreciated surprise.  Thank you, by the way, for all the offers to share your copies or buy a copy for me of S2614 at the next sale.  It was so sweet!  However, my lack of patience meant that after immediately publishing my post about it, I went to the Simplicity site and bought it.

I was extremely productive last night with playing cars with Jack, watching Bubble Guppies, doing 3 loads of laundry, and cutting out as well as sewing up the muslin of my top. 

Good points:

  • Pullover top, no closures necessary!
  • multiple cup sizes, love not having to do an FBA
  • love the front of the blouse/top, very cute

Bad points:

  • top of front should be cut on fold, why put a CF seam?
  • I used the C cup pattern piece and while the width is great, the seam under the bust is still too high.  It needs to be at least one inch lower.
  • the back bodice is a nightmare fit-wise.  Either it’s the fact that muslin is not drapey, and/or it’s not fitted enough. 

Here are some pics taken right before I went to work this morning.

I cut a size 14 even though my measurements inferred a sz 16 according to Simplicity’s measurement chart.  So I basted the side seams at a 1/2 inch instead of 5/8ths.  It seems to have worked.  I only see a little tightness under my arms, but that might be because of the seam allowances cutting into my armpit.  The front fit is pretty good ease-wise except for the aforementioned issue with top bodice length, which I can easily rectify.  I am really concerned with the back fit.  There is too much fullness in the back. 

In my limited fitting experience that could mean, 1) too much fabric for the back pattern piece from about 1-2 inches under the armscye to about about the hips, or 2) maybe the bodice in the hip area does not have enough ease and it is bunching up above that area?  Although it seem like there’s enough ease there.

What do you think the problem is?  And, more importantly, how do I fix it?

Here’s the line drawing for the pattern.  As you can see the back pattern piece is cut out in its entirety, not on the fold, and on the bias.


I was thinking that I could cut the back on grain with a CB seam to make a swayback adjustment, but that might make the blouse un-pullover-able (sewing technical term) and require a opening/closure of some kind.

I welcome all suggestions!

9 Responses leave one →
  1. Juliet permalink
    March 1, 2011

    The back is cut on the bias therefore it will get narrower on the body – you’ll need to give extra room. I would have suggested a shaped back seam if the back was cut on straight of grain but as it is bias and pullover-style you’ll need some room to get it on!

  2. birdmommy permalink
    March 1, 2011

    I think it looks like it’s a little snug at armpit level and across the hips at the back. If you did add a shaped centre back seam but kept the back bodice on the bias, wouldn’t it still have enough give to be a pull over?

  3. March 1, 2011

    You could do a tunic-style swayback alteration (basically altering the shoulders to shorten the back length, Sherry of Pattern, Scissors, Cloth has a good one in her swayback post). I have to agree with Juliet, though, you aren’t going to get a whole lot of shaping in the back and still be able to pull it on. Personally I’d prefer more shaping even if it meant adding a side-zip or something, but it’s ultimately your choice. (And like Birdmommy says, it does look a bit snug under the arm, fixing that might help with some of the back folding, too).

    PS. I like the look of the seam in the upper CF, I think it’s a point of interest for the blouse. It would look cute with a bit of lace or decorative buttons there, too…

    Good luck—there are some super-cute versions there! (and once you get the shaping figured out, you could always try a doubleknit… 😉 )

  4. March 1, 2011

    I made this blouse and also had the same problem with the back. I searched other blogs to see if anyone else had issues. Some did. One blog (sorry I can’t remember which one at the moment) said they cut the front upper bodice on the bias and cut the back on the straight of grain The bottom front piece was cut on straight of grain. This is what I did. You can still pull the top over the head. It did help with some of the back issues, but not all. I used a striped fabric so having the front on the bias looked cool.
    If I find the blog I referenced, I will email you. *Also, I kept the center front seam. It was needed so the stripes met in the front.

  5. March 1, 2011 again. I did not see an email address, so I am commenting again! OK, “My fabrication” made this blouse in Feb. 2010. That is where I read about putting the front upper bodice on the bias. Also, “Amanda’s Adventures in Sewing” made this top. I don’t think she shared any fitting problems, but she has great pictures of her completed blouse.

  6. Jodie permalink
    March 1, 2011

    Okay – I made this too and loved it. I cut the front on a fold and ended up cutting two upper fronts to eliminate the need for a facing (the second front was a self-lining). I used a light cotton voile, so it helped with sheerness (I teach jr. high, not a good thing). The back was much like yours. It’s because of the bias. The second time I made it, I put a seam across the back (I lined it up where the front horizontal seam was). Remember to add seam allowances! Then the upper back I cut on the straight of grain and the lower back on the bias. Worked well. I’d try a muslin of it to make sure you can get into it.

    Need more help/not clear, shoot me an e-mail,

  7. March 1, 2011

    When I made this pattern, I had a similar problem with fabric pooling over the small of my back. I ended up adding more width at the back so that it will drape better over my hips (I curved out from the waist to one size larger). I know that the bias affects the fabric drape, so I didn’t want to try adding darts or adding a seam for a swayback adjustment.

    I also was annoyed/confused by the front bodice. I’m a DD, and I ended up adding more depth/length/width to the cups. I did cut the bodice on the fold for one blouse, but I also did cut out the bodice tops separately when I had a border print fabric and I wanted to create cohesivness on the front. When I made the version with the front seam, I added buttons. The buttons really add charm to final look.

    I look forward to seeing you work with this pattern.

    Rose in SV

  8. March 3, 2011

    I had pooling to, in the same place and my swayback (if any) is negligeable so I blamed it on the bias. I chose to ignore it since, as they say here, “sa je pa wè, kè pa tounen” (if you don’t see it, it won’t make you nauseous), LOL!

    It’s still an unbearably cute top. I need another one… NOW!!!!

    All your fault, Elizabeth!!!

  9. May 15, 2011

    THis is a cute top! I came here through Google and I haven’t checked too see if you’ve finished it or not. However, I saw a tip on another site that might work. At the back waist, for about an inch above and below, they used shirring elastic and made a few horizontal lines across the middle back. I’ve also seen it done using just one piece of elastic sewn on the inside to gather the back waist.
    I’m considering making a Simplicity dress that has the separate cup size pieces, but I’m not sure how to go about choosing what size to make…do I choose the pattern size based on my upper bust, like I would if I were doing an FBA?

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