Last night, I came home from work and picked up my speedily shipped Simplicity 2614, a pleasant and most appreciated surprise. Thank you, by the way, for all the offers to share your copies or buy a copy for me of S2614 at the next sale. It was so sweet! However, my lack of patience meant that after immediately publishing my post about it, I went to the Simplicity site and bought it.
I was extremely productive last night with playing cars with Jack, watching Bubble Guppies, doing 3 loads of laundry, and cutting out as well as sewing up the muslin of my top.
- Pullover top, no closures necessary!
- multiple cup sizes, love not having to do an FBA
- love the front of the blouse/top, very cute
- top of front should be cut on fold, why put a CF seam?
- I used the C cup pattern piece and while the width is great, the seam under the bust is still too high. It needs to be at least one inch lower.
- the back bodice is a nightmare fit-wise. Either it’s the fact that muslin is not drapey, and/or it’s not fitted enough.
Here are some pics taken right before I went to work this morning.
I cut a size 14 even though my measurements inferred a sz 16 according to Simplicity’s measurement chart. So I basted the side seams at a 1/2 inch instead of 5/8ths. It seems to have worked. I only see a little tightness under my arms, but that might be because of the seam allowances cutting into my armpit. The front fit is pretty good ease-wise except for the aforementioned issue with top bodice length, which I can easily rectify. I am really concerned with the back fit. There is too much fullness in the back.
In my limited fitting experience that could mean, 1) too much fabric for the back pattern piece from about 1-2 inches under the armscye to about about the hips, or 2) maybe the bodice in the hip area does not have enough ease and it is bunching up above that area? Although it seem like there’s enough ease there.
What do you think the problem is? And, more importantly, how do I fix it?
Here’s the line drawing for the pattern. As you can see the back pattern piece is cut out in its entirety, not on the fold, and on the bias.
I was thinking that I could cut the back on grain with a CB seam to make a swayback adjustment, but that might make the blouse un-pullover-able (sewing technical term) and require a opening/closure of some kind.
I welcome all suggestions!