I’m almost done with Haley’s birthday dress, but need a different thread color to finish it off. I had a major gaffe on the dress, but I think I was able to salvage the project. More on that when the dress is finished.
Right now, I am on the hunt for my next dress pattern. I checked out a bunch of my patterns last night to see if there was another shift dress that would work for my next fabric, a white cotton eyelet that I will line with a pink or blue cotton batiste. Again, I chose a shift dress silhouette as I wanted a less fitted look, but I don’t think NL 6022 would work for this fabric mix. So, enter my first vintage pattern, Butterick 4515.
This pattern was uncut, but since there’s only one size in the envelope and the pattern tissue was in perfect condition, I decided it cut it. Sacrilege? I think not. I am making a muslin and will make all my changes on the muslin itself. This size is one too big for me as my bust is a 38. But the style lines of the dress are so simple that I thought I could easily make changes to the dress to fit it to me. Also, I should point out that I am making this as a sleeveless dress. This is my first time using French darts too! I chose this pattern partly on those french darts as Catherine’s favorite dress to make has them as well. I thought they would give me more shape in the front than NL 6022 which falls straight down from the bust, but not as fitted a shape as a sheath dress like B5147.
I sewed up the muslin this morning. Here’s a side by side comparison of NL 6022 (on the left) and vintage B 4515 on the right.
So, what do you think? I think the vintage Butterick is a much more flattering silhouette, don’t you? But I still wonder, though, if a larger bust requires the more fitted look of a sheath dress rather than the looser fit of a shift dress.
I thought the French darts were so cool! I have no idea how I would alter them though if I needed a closer fit. Does anyone know how I would do that?
So, here are the changes I made to the sz 20 B4515 pattern to get it to how it looks now (pics on the right):
- Used 1 and 1/8 seam allowance on the CB seam
- Took 3/8 out of CF (I’ll just shift the front pattern piece over 3/8 from the fold when I cut out the real fabric)
What I might change to the final version:
- Shape the CB seam/zipper a little more (for the muslin, I just sewed up the back completely and was able to shimmy in and out of the dress since it’s shift dress and a little roomy)
- Take in the side seams a little right by the armscye, maybe 1/4 inch in total
- I would like to deepen the french dart a little bit for a little more shaping in front, but when I tried to do that on the muslin, I changed how the dress draped and it was awful
- Would this make it into a sheath dress though? Maybe I should just leave well enough alone.
- Raise the hem by about 2.5 inches. This dress is really long!
So, there you have it. Vintage Butterick 4515. It was a pleasure working with her. What do you think? Should I bag the shift dress look altogether as I have C cup bust and a tummy?