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Sweet success and nanny approved

2011 May 26
by elizabeth_admin

Do you smell that?  It’s the smell of my sweet success!  I cut a new muslin of New Look 6022 last night and, after some fitting changes, I love it!


Here’s what I changed to get the loose floaty look the dress is drafted to have (see above):

  • Cut a sz 12 in the shoulders through the armscye and cut sz 12 sleeves
  • Cut a sz 16 in the width of the dress from the bottom of the armscye all the way down.

I wish I had thought to take a picture at this point, but I didn’t.  Once I basted it together, I checked the fit.  I was able to slip it on no problem.  Tons of ease.  No granny underwear mishaps occurred.  😉   However, it was too big and needed some shaping. 

So here’s what I did next to fit the dress to my liking:

  • I pinned out some of the ease at the side seams (about 1 inch) from the bottom of the armscye to about 5 inches below and then tapering to the original seam at 9 inches below on both sides.  I really liked that silhouette.
  • Then I noticed that the elastic gathering on the back needed to be lower (about 1.25 inches to the lengthen/shorten line) to follow the curve of my spine better.  Ahh, much nicer.
  • Once I moved the elastic lower, I noticed the back upper bodice was a little too baggy, so I took in the center back seam about 1/4 inch on both sides tapering down to the elastic.  That’s better!

In the end, I probably sized down from a sz 16 to sz12, which actually is a little puzzling to me.  The difference between the sz 10 and sz 12 is not that much on the pattern sheet.  The sz 10 was a sausage casing on me, but my 2nd muslin, which is probably a sz 12 with a titch added, is so much more roomier.  Go figure!

Now, to the photographic evidence!

front, hands in back

front, hands at sides


front, hands on hips







Notes to self for the final make:

  • I think I can still slip this on with the CB seam completely sewn up to the top of the bodice, so I might try that on the muslin tonight to check my hypothesis.
  • I like the fact that this dress is so unfitted and loose while still skimming the curves.  I won’t have to worry about losing or gaining 5 lbs every so often and then not being able to wear it.  Just like Myrna, I am frustrated with my constantly fluctuating weight which drastically changes my ability to wear fitted things.  Even just 5 lbs makes a significant difference, as I found out with my B5147 dresses.
  • The unhemmed muslin is actually where I would like my dress to end, right at the knee, so I will add 1 1/4 inches to the bottom of the pattern pieces so I can have a hem.
  • Originally I was going to make this up in an eyelet fabric with a cotton batiste underlining it, but I don’t think this pattern is right for that fabric combo at all.  I think the eyelet cotton has too much body for the style of this dress and would be too “fattening.”  This dress needs a drapier fabric.  So I am pretreating some lt wt cottons today so I can cut one tonight.  I think it will be this cotton print that I picked up at Jomar’s at the PR Philly Weekend last year.

The blue cotton print on the left


I tried on my muslin for the nanny this morning because I needed an unbiased opinion on this loose fitting dress style on me, and she liked it.  I’m excited to make a summery and comfy dress!

10 Responses leave one →
  1. SusieR permalink*
    May 26, 2011

    Nicely done!

    A suggestion, Elizabeth: have you considered photoshopping the fabric you are using onto your photo? Given that the muslin would be easy to grab and fill, it would be a great way to test other possibilities as well, before you make those cuts. Just a thought!!

  2. May 26, 2011

    looking good!
    i think that blue print should look nice 🙂

  3. May 26, 2011

    It’s cute! I wouldn’t have expected it to be so flattering, given the loose silhouette, but I like your adjustments. I agree about not using the eyelet.

    On the B5147 TNT, can’t you just sew a version with very small seam allowances (1/4″ or 3/8″) for the times when you are 5# over ideal weight? I have some like that. I have a few that I know not to even try on if I’m feeling water-retention-ish (as that tends to be my source of fluctuation) and others that always fit no matter what.

  4. May 26, 2011

    The fit looks great! I was checking out that pattern as well but it is sold out online 🙁

    Love the blue print. I have been looking for one like that.

    It is amazing what a difference an inch or two of ease makes. I made a TNT t-shirt a few months ago and sewed 3/8″ instead of 5/8″ seam allowances — totally different look, amazing.

    can’t wait to see your finished dress

  5. May 26, 2011

    It looks like you have nailed the fit! And oh, how I love that blue print fabric.

    It does seem tricky to get the right fabric for this sort of dress. Sounds like your instincts are showing the path forward.

  6. May 26, 2011

    I like that fit!

  7. fangaroni permalink
    May 26, 2011

    Hi Elizabeth! I’m not sure if I’ve commented before, but I think the fit of this muslin is spot on! Great job! Also, I was in Mood Fabrics today, and I really thought I saw a bright blue turquoise. It was in the cottons aisle that is all the way towards the back of the store. Umm it was on the left side, not the side with the solid cotton sateens. Although now that I think about it, I’m not sure if it was lightweight… I only knew that the color popped out at me because it was bright!

  8. May 27, 2011

    New Look do great simple patterns don’t they! The fit looks good.

  9. Auntie Allyn permalink
    May 27, 2011

    Wow, I admire your work on perfecting this pattern . . . I think your work will pay off! But I agree, I think the eyelet wouldn’t hang properly and you’ll be better off with a drapier fabric (like that lovely blue medallion print). Here’s hoping we all have a successful sewing weekend!

  10. May 28, 2011

    you did great on the alterations…. good fit.

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