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The Phoenix Skirt or Pattern Review: New Look 6035

2013 April 24
by elizabeth_admin

I’m excited to report that I was able to make another Kelly green skirt out of the remnants from my failed Vogue 1247 skirt.  If you will kindly recall, I didn’t like the seam right across my tummy, nor the pockets.  Removing the pockets did nothing to alleviate my dislike of this skirt on me.  It’s a cute skirt, just not on me.

But back to the phoenix… My new Kelly green skirt rises from the ashes of the old one and is super cute.  I love it!  Here’s the pattern review:



Pattern Description:  Misses’ Seven Sizes in One Wardrobe (includes a jacket, shell, A-line skirt, and pants).  I made the A-line skirt.



Pattern Sizing:  Size A (4-16).  I muslined a size 16 because my measurements matched that size.  Boy was that a downer.  But, I squared my shoulders and carried on.  I made small adjustments to the muslin which I will detail further on.  The sizing, for better or for worse, seems on par with the measurements.  Excuse me while I remove all the mirrors from my house.  I would suggest going down one size if making with a stretch woven.  I probably ended up with a sz 14 after my adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes it did!  I’m quite pleased!

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Not sure, I didn’t use them.  I did notice though that they instruct you to make the waistband separate from the skirt.  I suggest attaching each waistband part to each skirt part so that you can sew the side seams in one go and fit as you go.  That’s what I did and it really made fitting much easier.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I loved the simplicity of the skirt.  I thought the A-line would be flattering to my figure as I am finding straight skirts highlight my tummy too much now.  Also, I loved the contoured waistband.  It alleviated the need for darts and I feel more secure in a skirt with a waistband rather than just a facing.  I have no dislikes about the pattern at all!

Fabric used: A stretch cotton sateen in Kelly green from Apple Annie Fabrics online.  I love the fabric, love the sheen of the sateen.  It’s perfect for this skirt.  I wasn’t able to pay attention to the nap of the sateen though due to having only fabric remnants from my original purchase.  I also didn’t have enough fabric for the facings, but happily had the perfect coordinating fabric in the stash.  🙂   



Pattern changes or design changes made:

  • I changed the order of construction so that I could fit as I went as mentioned above.
  • I changed the side zip to a back zip so the back piece is cut twice instead of on the fold.
  • The front and back of the skirt use the same pattern piece.  After making my fit changes, I now have a different back pattern piece for each side.  My right hip is higher than my left, so it made the A-line cut of the skirt bow out funny.  I had to taper the side seams from the hip to the hem to accommodate.
  • I added topstitching to the hem of the skirt.  I was going to add it to the  waistband, but then thought it might torque the band, so decided against it.



Waistband with facing stitched in the ditch below

Waistband with facing stitched in the ditch below


Which sewing machine(s) did you use for construction?   I used my Singer Featherweight for the majority of construction.  My Emerald 183 was used for the zipper insertion.  And, my Brother serger was used for serging the seam allowances.

The invisible invisible zipper

The invisible invisible zipper which is navy as that’s all I had in the stash.  Very preppy.


Serge finish on the seam allowances in coordinating blue thread

Serge finish on the seam allowances in coordinating blue thread


Time to complete construction?  It took 2.5 hours to muslin the skirt with two sets of fitting changes.  And then almost 7 hours to make the final garment.  I’m slow.  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again.  Sewing, done right, takes time.  There’s a lot of pressing, a lot of unpicking and restitching.  If you want it to look nice, you have to take the time.

Will you sew it again or recommend it to others?   Definitely.  This is a great draft for an A-line skirt with contoured waistband.  You can do a lot with this pattern to customize once you have the fit down.  Different fabrics will look great made up in this pattern.  Buy it!

Conclusion:  Great A-line skirt pattern.  Love it.  Easy to make.  Easy to fit.  I want to make it again in a floral print I picked up last week.  It has a bit more drape than the sateen I used this time.  The jacket and shell included in this pattern look like winners too.

And now for some pictures of the skirt on me.  These were taken after a birthday lunch for my friend Jenna who was generous with her time yesterday and gave me some child-free hours so I could complete this skirt in time for PR Weekend.  Thank you Jenna!








I am now going to attempt to muslin my Gatsby dress this afternoon so I can take it with me to PR Weekend tomorrow.  I hope to get some expert fitting advice from my sewing peeps there!

10 Responses leave one →
  1. April 24, 2013

    It’s wonderful Elizabeth, the fit, style and the color.

  2. April 24, 2013

    Excellent phoenix. That style of skirt looks good on me too, I think. I should make one ……….. after the wrap dress.

  3. April 24, 2013

    Wow – the work on this is very beautiful. That stitching in the ditch is impressive!

  4. April 24, 2013

    I love the skirt! It looks great on you! I also appreciate your slow sewer comment. I see so many bloggers making so many beautiful things so quickly and am a bit intimidated. I really need to settle in and think about most projects.
    Your patience with projects certainly pays off. All of your garments are beautiful!

  5. April 24, 2013

    Nice! The color is still great, and the style is simple and flattering.

  6. mrsmole permalink
    April 25, 2013

    It is great when you can salvage a fabric you love into something that works better for your body…hooray! Love the contrast facing and hem topstitching. Changing the order of construction will add to the overall time but always worth the effort. Your next version skirt of this skirt will be much quicker!

  7. Judi permalink
    April 25, 2013

    Fits perfectly and, as usual, it’s perfectly sewn!

  8. April 25, 2013

    Good Review…with so many different A-line skirt patterns, it’s always good to know which ones to choose. Yours is super cute in that green. Nicely done!

  9. April 27, 2013

    It is great that you could remake your skirt into a design that you are comfortable in. I’d love to see a matching jacket with a contrasting green cuff (view B). I hope you have just enough left over!

  10. August 4, 2013

    i love the colour of her skirt……………love it…..good job

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