The Phoenix Skirt or Pattern Review: New Look 6035
I’m excited to report that I was able to make another Kelly green skirt out of the remnants from my failed Vogue 1247 skirt. If you will kindly recall, I didn’t like the seam right across my tummy, nor the pockets. Removing the pockets did nothing to alleviate my dislike of this skirt on me. It’s a cute skirt, just not on me.
But back to the phoenix… My new Kelly green skirt rises from the ashes of the old one and is super cute. I love it! Here’s the pattern review:
Pattern Description: Misses’ Seven Sizes in One Wardrobe (includes a jacket, shell, A-line skirt, and pants). I made the A-line skirt.
Pattern Sizing: Size A (4-16). I muslined a size 16 because my measurements matched that size. Boy was that a downer. But, I squared my shoulders and carried on. I made small adjustments to the muslin which I will detail further on. The sizing, for better or for worse, seems on par with the measurements. Excuse me while I remove all the mirrors from my house. I would suggest going down one size if making with a stretch woven. I probably ended up with a sz 14 after my adjustments.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did! I’m quite pleased!
Were the instructions easy to follow? Not sure, I didn’t use them. I did notice though that they instruct you to make the waistband separate from the skirt. I suggest attaching each waistband part to each skirt part so that you can sew the side seams in one go and fit as you go. That’s what I did and it really made fitting much easier.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the simplicity of the skirt. I thought the A-line would be flattering to my figure as I am finding straight skirts highlight my tummy too much now. Also, I loved the contoured waistband. It alleviated the need for darts and I feel more secure in a skirt with a waistband rather than just a facing. I have no dislikes about the pattern at all!
Fabric used: A stretch cotton sateen in Kelly green from Apple Annie Fabrics online. I love the fabric, love the sheen of the sateen. It’s perfect for this skirt. I wasn’t able to pay attention to the nap of the sateen though due to having only fabric remnants from my original purchase. I also didn’t have enough fabric for the facings, but happily had the perfect coordinating fabric in the stash. 🙂
Pattern changes or design changes made:
- I changed the order of construction so that I could fit as I went as mentioned above.
- I changed the side zip to a back zip so the back piece is cut twice instead of on the fold.
- The front and back of the skirt use the same pattern piece. After making my fit changes, I now have a different back pattern piece for each side. My right hip is higher than my left, so it made the A-line cut of the skirt bow out funny. I had to taper the side seams from the hip to the hem to accommodate.
- I added topstitching to the hem of the skirt. I was going to add it to the waistband, but then thought it might torque the band, so decided against it.
Which sewing machine(s) did you use for construction? I used my Singer Featherweight for the majority of construction. My Emerald 183 was used for the zipper insertion. And, my Brother serger was used for serging the seam allowances.
Time to complete construction? It took 2.5 hours to muslin the skirt with two sets of fitting changes. And then almost 7 hours to make the final garment. I’m slow. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Sewing, done right, takes time. There’s a lot of pressing, a lot of unpicking and restitching. If you want it to look nice, you have to take the time.
Will you sew it again or recommend it to others? Definitely. This is a great draft for an A-line skirt with contoured waistband. You can do a lot with this pattern to customize once you have the fit down. Different fabrics will look great made up in this pattern. Buy it!
Conclusion: Great A-line skirt pattern. Love it. Easy to make. Easy to fit. I want to make it again in a floral print I picked up last week. It has a bit more drape than the sateen I used this time. The jacket and shell included in this pattern look like winners too.
And now for some pictures of the skirt on me. These were taken after a birthday lunch for my friend Jenna who was generous with her time yesterday and gave me some child-free hours so I could complete this skirt in time for PR Weekend. Thank you Jenna!
I am now going to attempt to muslin my Gatsby dress this afternoon so I can take it with me to PR Weekend tomorrow. I hope to get some expert fitting advice from my sewing peeps there!