The Sublime Bliss of the Humble and the Plain Tee-shirt
For the past couple of days I have embarked on an impromptu project. It came out of nowhere really. My baseball tee run of late (pls forgive the pun), has me panting for a plain tee pattern. I looked in my pattern stash, and I had none. I had fancy tee patterns with asymmetrical proportions, pleated whatchamacallits, etc., but nothing plain. Nothing fitted. I even looked at my two year collection of Burdas and Ottobres, and I had zilch. Nada. Zero.
I turned to my sewing group of friends, asking for pattern recommendations. I looked on-line at the big four and Simplicity/New Look. I even earmarked a couple (KS 3766 and KS 3036). Then I remembered that I had drafting books in my sewing book library. I remembered the Cal Patch book, “Design-It-Yourself Clothes”. It provides instructions on how to draft and customize your own A-line skirt, t-shirt, button-down shirt, dress and pants. I had time Saturday morning this past weekend to work on a custom draft of the t-shirt.
I took the measurements. I put pencil to paper. And I started drafting.
Now let me just say right off the bat that drafting is all about correct measurements. If your data is wrong, your draft will be wrong. How tautly should you hold your measuring tape. Vanity tight? Lazy loose? And just what is realistic tautness? I think confident and correct measurement taking is a skill that needs to be learned through trial and error. I am pretty confident that my bust/waist/hip measurements are spot on. I’ve been taking them for-evah! But the “distance from high shoulder to armpit” or “bicep circumference”? Those measurements, I haven’t been taking that often.
Now onto the drafting. I think my draft of the torso was spot on. My bust/waist/hip measurements didn’t let me down. But, on my first draft, the distance from the high shoulder to armpit was off. Off by about 3/4 inch to 1-1/4 inch too short, resulting in a very shallow (small) armhole from top to bottom. Unfortunately, I did not take pictures of that first draft. Also, the neckline was a little too high so my starting point for that must have been too high as well. And the shoulder width was way off. I took off 3/4 inch from the edge of the shoulder and probably could shave off more. My neckline was a little close to my neck. The sleeves were a little tight too, so I added an inch to that width.
So on the second pass of drafting, I widened and deepened the neckline, reduced the width of the shoulders, scooped out and lowered the armscyes and re-drafted the sleeves.
And here’s how it fits on me. I used the same knit for both muslins so I could accurately track the changes. It’s a stretchy knit I bought from the National City Swap Meet.
I think in a more stable knit, I would need an FBA as there are drag lines pointing to the bust area. The stretchiness of this particular knit and the ease built into the pattern are dealing with the majority of the bust issue. But I can also see a need for length in the front as well. The pattern accounts for the circumference of your entire body in quartiles. Are all bodies evenly divided into quartiles? No. So while this is a neat solution, it is not THE solution. If your knit is stretchy and has good recovery, you can get away with this quartile system. If your knit is not stretchy, then you will need to alter your pattern appropriately.
And since I brought it up, let’s talk about the ease in this draft. This draft is based on your measurements and your measurements alone. There is no inch added here or there for ease. The sharp corners are rounded out; that is all. Is it negative ease? Well, that depends on how honest your measurement taking was, doesn’t it? If I use a ponte knit with this pattern, you can bet that I will add some insurance onto the side seams. I don’t want to widen the neckline, so I will definitely add to the side seams instead. I will definitely do an FBA of some kind as I will need length to go over the “large tracts of land” and may even need to add some width there as well. Will I add a dart? I doubt it. I hate darts in knits.
Am I confident that my second draft is good to go, as it were? I’m not 100% sure. I still have some questions vis a vis the curve of the armscye. Do I need to scoop out more? Do I need to lower it more? I have no idea. I look to the pattern drafters of my readers to let me know if further changes need to be made. I think I’m on the right track, but I’m not completely sure. Please let me know your thoughts in the comments, if you would be so kind. Here are some closeups of the armscye and sleeve for your expert perusal.
All in all, I am really tickled by how well this draft fit me in the torso. I think sleeves and armscyes are tricky businesses to begin with, so to get a draft this good on the second try is really pleasing to me. I could totally wear this. My neckline is just perfect for me. Not high and not too low. The neck binding is stretched just the right amount.
Tell me what you think! Tell me if you have used Cal Patch’s book at all too. I’m really curious to hear of your experiences.