Where there’s a will, there’s a way
I am probably one the most stubborn people you will ever have the chance to meet. Just ask my ex-husband. 😉
I was not about to let a little sissy blouse pattern get the best of me with it’s poofy bias back and ill-considered, too-high C-cup bodice. As soon as Jack was tucked in bed, I tackled the pattern changes. I knew I wanted to lengthen the top bodice so the seam would cut across the bust. I also wanted to add more ease under the arm and at the hips.
Using tracing paper, I traced new pattern pieces. For the additional ease at the sides of the back pattern, I went out a 1/4 inch under the arm tapering to the original cutting line near the lengthen shorten line of the pattern and then going out to a 1/4 inch again towards the hem.
Then I cut the pattern straight across near the top of the back to add the inch of length I was going to add in the front. Originally I thought I would need to add the inch at the top, but when I went to do the same to the front, I realized I should add the inch to under the armscye since doing it above would change and lengthen the armscye shape. So here’s what the final changes look like on the back pattern piece.
I did the same on both the bodice pieces. I only took a picture of the top bodice though.
Then I cut out another muslin and sewed it up. I should say I sewed it up twice because the first time, I did not realize that I sewed the to side seams together on the upper bodice instead of the CF. I should have realized this immediately when I all the gathering notches didn’t match up. I even went back to the tracings to check my markings. But noooooo, I didn’t listen to my inner notch. I just shrugged my shoulders, gathered and sewed up the blouse up to the sew the side seam step. It was at that step that I finally realized that my side seams were necklines where the side seams should have been. ARGH!!!!!!!
Ok, long story long, I took it all apart and put it back together the right way and tried it on. You will have to take my word on it, but the fit was still a little off. I have decided not to take late night pictures anymore because I look like crap and the lighting is crap which leads to crap pictures. So just take my word that it was a little poofy on the sides about 2 inches under the armscye.
My first change to remedy the poofiness was to taper in the side seams on both the front and back pieces evenly about a centimeter tapering up to the original seam line about 2 inches below the armscye and likewise below. This eliminated some of the poofiness, but not all. So I had the brilliant idea of removing some material from the top front bodice piece only, somewhat like a dart. I probably took out about a centimeter there tapering to nothing at the start of the gathering section. Here’s what those changes look like.
Then I tried it on. And it was love at 2.5 muslin!!! The huge poof of back fabric was gone. The front bodice seam was in the right place, under the girls not cutting them in half, and the whole blouse skimmed over the body with a nice silhouette. I am so so happy with it now!
Claudine mentioned to me that the back is drafted to not be fitted and that it’s the style of the blouse. So I decided not to cut the back with a CB seam or on grain.
In talking off line with Carolyn about the blouse yesterday, she mentioned the dangers of overfitting. I don’t think I’ve gone into the land of the overfitted here. I think I have a nice balance with nice silhouette and enough ease. And I’ve dealt with the bias back satisfactorily. AND, I can still pull this blouse over – no need for an opening/closure.
Check for yourself!
In a drapier fabric, the back will drape much better than this stiff unwashed muslin which still has sizing on it. What do you think? Isn’t this blouse truly the Holy Grail now??? Please let me know your opinion.